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#1186963 10/16/2016 12:33 PM
Joined: Nov 2011
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'Bolter
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Hey Guys,

I have a relatively generic question that I thought I would throw out to see what you think...

I am in the process of getting a 1942 deco cab together that long ago was damaged on the passenger side. I had to straighten out the cab door frame, and hinge post frame portions on this side of the cab as door alignment was terrible. The only way I could really do a decent job of straightening was to remove these two pieces completely from the cab. Right now all of the spot welds of the sheetmetal "skin" are removed, and the cab is off the truck frame. I am in the process of bolting/welding the "skeletal" portions of the cab assembly, and the cab skin is the next order of assembly. So here is the question...Should I mount the cab back on the truck frame BEFORE I plug weld the cab skin to the cab frame members? Intuitively I think I should as the fitment of the skin and doors is relative to the position of the cab when mounted on the frame. So what do you all think?

BTW, after many hours of head scratching and cussing, I got the door to align/latch really well (better than new?), yay!

Thanks in advance,

Paul

Last edited by Paul_WNC; 10/16/2016 12:37 PM.

1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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Shop Shark
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I'd definitely remount the cab first.
The time spent remounting will be far less bothersome than the lost tools and burnt ears from not.
Think door fitment x 100...


Give me ambiguity
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Agree ^^^

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'Bolter
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Thanks for the validation guys. I will proceed in getting the cab on the frame. This cab is a donor, so the frame it is going onto looks very straight and hopefully will be a good platform for final cab (door) adjustments. This "little" project has taken much more blood/sweat/tears than anticipated and or desired...coming along well though.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

Paul

Last edited by Paul_WNC; 10/17/2016 10:58 AM.

1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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4
'Bolter
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Paul
Just an observation and suggestion about the frame. I too thought the frame on my '46 project looked good to go. I was wrong. After measuring from the various points referenced in the shop manual and then doing a close eyeball inspection it became apparent it had been clobbered at least twice. A frame machine was used to re-align it. Since the frame is readily accessible, I would recommend taking a few minutes or so and putting a measuring tape to it. Note, the Shop Manual doesn't have the measurement numbers, but does show the points used to measure between to make sure the opposite diagonals measure the same.

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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Square and level.

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'Bolter
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46sparky, Good suggestion, last night I took diagonal measurements between all of the boxed frame sections and the frame appears square.

Since I have the cab on a sloping gravel surface near my shop, I think the frame will be a more square/level platform for final adjustment and welding.

Thank you for all of the good advice. Stovebolt rocks!


1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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Joined: Oct 2005
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
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Usually, you'll want your diagonal measurements no more than an 1/8" off from each other. Then you'll want to make sure your frame is flat with no twist, or level.

http://www.bunchobikes.com/1952suburban23.jpg


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