The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Not starting

Hello there all.... was hoping for a few suggestions on my new to me truck. I bought a 54' 3100 from my neighbor (was his uncles new in 54' and a CA vehicle). It was modified by his son who last had it. It has a 261 motor, Clifford intake manifold, Fenton header, Holley 4 barrel, K&N intake, HEi ignition. When I bought it some months ago it was running and fired up. One day I had planned to drive it near 40 miles away. I drove to the Chevron and topped off the tank (was drained right before I bought it). Filled it up and then when I tried to start it up again.....it wouldnt start. I had it towed and by that time the battery was drained because I had tried many times to crank it. My buddy gave me a jump starter pack and I drove it back home and thought that would be the end of it. Still not starting after all this time. so...... I asked many people (including neighbor who tried to help me and couldn't figure it out). I'll start where I was told to check......

Battery is fully charged
theres power to the ignition, coil, distributor....no spark at the plug.
I hear the electronic fuel pump working and I smell fuel. Tried starter fluid while cranking and nothing.
100 amp alternator new
battery cables are new
block ground is new
cap and rotor new
spark plugs new and gapped correctly
coil new
ignitor (under cap) new
compression test (all within 10%) the numbers were a bit above 30.. Is that normal? seemed a bit low but I've never done it and am not a mechanic.

So folks thats what I am dealing with...engine cranks strong but not starting!! kinda bummed out at this point.Any help would be GREAT!!! Just want to take the wife for a cruise before it starts getting cold. Thank you

If there is no spark at the plug, there is something wrong with the ignition system. Since it worked, then didn't, then worked again, and now won't, I'd check first for loose wires.

Troubleshooting electrical problems is much simpler if you verify blocks at a time so you don't keep going around in circles.

The distributor, as it turns, creates a pulse of electricity that goes through the coil. That builds up an electrical field that then collapses, generating a huge charge of electricity (30,000 volts or more). So, with the coil wire removed from the coil (or from the center tower of the distributor, have someone crank the engine.

Can you see and/or hear a spark/snap? If not, the plugs will never get a spark. So solve that problem first.

If there is no spark coming from the coil, it could be a bad coil, loose wires or bad ignitor. (Never assume anything is fine just because you replaced it.) Remove the wire from the negative side of the coil. Connect a wire to the negative side of the coil and touch and remove the opposing end from a ground (the engine should be grounded.) Does the coil spark now? Then it's good and the problem is the ignitor or the wire between the ignitor and the coil.

Here's a diagram that shows the connections: diagram (scroll down)

Work your way through the whole system like that, and you will find the problem.

Compression numbers are terrible. Should be around 120lbs per cylinder. If you used starter fluid prior to the compression test you may very well have washed down the cylinder walls. Do a wet test by squirting some oil down each plug hole then crank it. If compression doesn't come back up then you have ring or valve problem.
I agree with Paul as far as spark is concerned, loose wire somewhere or a bad new part. The quality of parts these days is really bad. Good luck and keep asking questions. If you figure it out be sure to let us know.

Pull the cap on the HEI and look really close at the two small wires running to the pick up coil ( Yellow and Green ) I think. These are prone to break because the vacuum advance is always rotating the coil, which flexes the wires. It will never start if one is bad.

Thanks Joe, I'll try this and report back.

There are two ways to troubleshoot problems. The scattershot approach and the methodical approach. You get to choose which one you use. If Joe's suggestion doesn't pan out, what will you look for next?

You're much better off confirming that parts are good and eliminating them from the possible causes or discovering they're bad and replacing them.

It's up to you.

Check the camshaft timing. With the #6 cylinder exhaust valve closing and the intake just beginning to open, the #1 and #6 pistons should be at the top of the stroke. It sounds like you have encountered some sort of problem with the timing gears or the battery is so dead it can't crank the engine fast enough to start. It will never run with that kind of compression, even if it has spark. You have more than one problem to deal with.

Check the ignition module and the pickup coil, assuming you have a General Motors HEI, not some Mickey Mouse aftermarket system.
Jerry

Pull the cap and see if the rotor spins when cranking. Stripped timing gears could explain low compression and no spark. Only takes a minute to check.

John