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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,024 Posts1,055,390 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 117 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 117 | I am planning a restoration of my '56 two ton soon. The truck is really straight and the only rust through is at the rear cab corners and on the bottom of the passengers side door(leaky window seals. I would like to remove the cab, hood and fenders and have them chemically dipped and cleaned to remove all rust. I have heard that there is a dip after this to chemically coat the steel so that rust cannot form even in the small folds & crevaces. I will probably replace the passenger side door, but I'd like to dip both of the doors that I use. I have a few questions about this below. 1. Does the chemical rust removal work well?(will this damage my VIN tag?) 2. Is there a primer dip that "bonds" to the steel to neutralize all future corrosion? 3. Is it best to do this before or after the cab corners are replaced/repaired?(I'd figure that it should be done first) 4. What is the best paint to use to paint it? (It is a green enamel color paint with white trim) Thank you for any advice. David | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | - the chemical stripping works excellent especially if they can also do the phosphate bath/rinse - some places may epoxy prime it for you too, but haven't heard of anyone with a vat of it [primer dries pretty quick!] - do the stripping before any body work as there'll be more damage uncovered - I'd use an epoxy primer first, then the best paint your local painter/supplier recommends, partly depends on the look you want
the rusty door bottom isn't just leaky seals, the 'seals' don't totally prevent water entering the door - the door skin is crimp welded and the drains in the bottom plug easily, letting moisture hold in the fine dirt that filters in there and gets into the joint - make sure you treat that area inside, like epoxy primer or a good rust preventive spray - any used TF door you find is likely to have the same problem
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 117 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 117 | Thanks Bill, I'm keeping my ear to the ground for a good passenger door. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | The chem dip will strip the paint off your vin tag.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 117 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 117 | Hello Josiah, The paint is already off of my vin tag. It's just bare metal. I'll try to pull my gvw tag. I think they make new rivets to replace it again. I saw a link in here one time for those rivets. I don't want to do anything to hurt the vin tag chemically. Is the tag itself unharmed? Thanks, David | | |
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