The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (sawdust54, Uncles51, Peggy M, Nick in Manitou), 106 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,028
Posts1,055,413
Members48,422
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#118554 11/24/2005 10:10 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 117
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 117
I am planning a restoration of my '56 two ton soon. The truck is really straight and the only rust through is at the rear cab corners and on the bottom of the passengers side door(leaky window seals. I would like to remove the cab, hood and fenders and have them chemically dipped and cleaned to remove all rust. I have heard that there is a dip after this to chemically coat the steel so that rust cannot form even in the small folds & crevaces. I will probably replace the passenger side door, but I'd like to dip both of the doors that I use. I have a few questions about this below.
1. Does the chemical rust removal work well?(will this damage my VIN tag?)
2. Is there a primer dip that "bonds" to the steel to neutralize all future corrosion?
3. Is it best to do this before or after the cab corners are replaced/repaired?(I'd figure that it should be done first)
4. What is the best paint to use to paint it?
(It is a green enamel color paint with white trim)
Thank you for any advice.
David

#118555 11/24/2005 3:44 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
- the chemical stripping works excellent especially if they can also do the phosphate bath/rinse
- some places may epoxy prime it for you too, but haven't heard of anyone with a vat of it [primer dries pretty quick!]
- do the stripping before any body work as there'll be more damage uncovered
- I'd use an epoxy primer first, then the best paint your local painter/supplier recommends, partly depends on the look you want

the rusty door bottom isn't just leaky seals, the 'seals' don't totally prevent water entering the door - the door skin is crimp welded and the drains in the bottom plug easily, letting moisture hold in the fine dirt that filters in there and gets into the joint - make sure you treat that area inside, like epoxy primer or a good rust preventive spray - any used TF door you find is likely to have the same problem

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#118556 11/25/2005 4:08 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 117
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 117
Thanks Bill, I'm keeping my ear to the ground for a good passenger door.

#118557 11/25/2005 9:52 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
The chem dip will strip the paint off your vin tag.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
#118558 11/25/2005 12:28 PM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 117
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 117
Hello Josiah,
The paint is already off of my vin tag. It's just bare metal. I'll try to pull my gvw tag. I think they make new rivets to replace it again. I saw a link in here one time for those rivets. I don't want to do anything to hurt the vin tag chemically. Is the tag itself unharmed?
Thanks,
David


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0