The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Update starter and alternator

I am currently replacing my frozen 261 with a 283 in my 1958 Chevy Viking. The two electrical issues I am currently dealing with are as follows;
Issue #1 Need to add a push button starter switch to replace the foot start from the 261. I have a nice 20 amp chrome one I will mount on the dash. Where do I attach the two wires from the new push button switch?
Issue #2 The 283 has the original externally regulated alternator. Can I use the existing voltage regulator on the firewall and wires to operated this alternator? If so, which of the three possible connection points would I use?
Thanks, Rich

If you want to retain the look of the stomp starter, use a floor switch like the one a Ford or Allis-Chalmers tractor uses. Run a #12 or larger wire from a full battery voltage source like the back of the ammeter to the switch, and the other wire from the switch to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. A dash-mounted switch is wired the same way. Be sure to use a very heavy duty push button capable of a 40 amp initial current surge or so.

The old external-regulated alternator requires the use of a 4-terminal dedicated regulator that's a pain in the butt to wire, and it's very failure prone. Switch to a 10SI internal regulated alternator if possible. The original DC regulator cannot be modified to control an alternator.
Jerry

Switching to the 10si internally regulated alternator will not be a problem. Can I use any of the existing wiring to wire it in?

I'd use the armature wire from the generator for the alternator output, and connect the BAT and ARM wires together at the old regulator. You can either leave the old regulator in place and use it as a junction block, or gut it out and install a small fuse strip inside to power accessories. Don't go ape on alternator size- - - -a 55-60 amp should be plenty.
Jerry

Sounds good. I like the idea of repurposing the old regulator. Since I am only connecting one wire to the output of the alternator, will the two wire connector ever serve a purpose? For example a future wiring upgrade? I cant help but be curious as to why the suggestion to stay in the 55-60 amp range?

You will need to make up a short jumper wire from the big output terminal of the rear of the 10SI to one of the terminals at the perimeter, using a female spade terminal, the one on the right when looking at the back of the alternator. That gives the internal regulator its voltage reference. The other terminal would be used as a ground for an idiot light if you choose to install one.

The main reason for staying with a low-amperage alternator is to (supposedly) avoid overloading the ammeter. A 55 amp is almost double the capacity of a generator anyway. Some of our members think a high output alternator can cause an older ammeter to overload and catch fire. That's a myth. Simply putting a shunt across the ammeter would prevent that, but I'm tired of "casting pearls", so to speak!
Jerry

I have used them for years on several vehicles and never had a failure. Never had a problem wiring one up either. I have one on my '54 Suburban now that was on it when I got it. It has given me over 20,000 miles of trouble free service. I also have one on my '53 yard dog.

Here's a wiring diagram if you should decide to use yours.

I understand. Just a piece of trivial info. My 58 is a retired fire truck. I ran the model number on the generator and found it is a 50 amp unit. Its significantly larger than a standard generator I am familiar with. I wonder if that is a positive in regard to the amp meters ability to handle more current.

The conductors and the ammeter are probably considerably heavier than standard, so upping the max amperage on that system shouldn't be a problem, as long as the insulation is good. As always, make sure all the connections are clean, tight, and not corroded.
Jerry

Thanks for time and the information. This site is very helpful. I'm looking forward to my next issue.
Rich