The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop many many holes in cab belt line

I went over to see my 1940 Chevy truck cab at the blasters.

There are hundreds of tiny holes in the sheet metal. almost all in the belt line around the back of the cab. Some down low in the front corners too. I was expecting that, but not way up on the cab.

I didn't take my camera so I don't have any photos yet.

Is this area prone to rust? What is the recommended method for fixing? It doesn't seem that thin but it must be. Can you just weld up each hole or will it just blast right through. Do you have to cut out the belt line? That can't be easy to fabricate.

Man I am bummin'

Bill Schickling

Generally when you have pinholes, welding just produces bigger holes. With a copper backing you might have a chance but the areas will be larger than the original holes.

Bill,

Can you have the "other" side of the holes blasted too. In other words, the inside of the cab. Lots of little holes would be a candidate for
fiberglass, and I mean cloth, resin and
catalyst, on the back side and body filler on the outside. I think this could be a permanent repair if ALL of the rust around each hole were blasted to very white metal. My only concern is that the metal must be very thin in these areas. Isolated rust holes seem strange..was something behind them that trapped water/moisture.

This method sounds second class, but I think it would be effective, permanent and invisible if done properly. The absolute key would be to get rid of any signs of rust...then seal it from the atmosphere. Unless you have another cab available you are going to have to think positively.


Stuart.

fiberglas on steel requires a special resin that's too expensive and special order - solder'em up - butane torch and some acid core solder

Bill

I just went through the same thing on my 42 cab. There is actually an overlap of metal there on mine. This had allowed dirt and moisture to collect over the years and rust thru from the inside out. I used Metal-2-Metal body filler and sealed the backside afterwards with paint and such. Metal-2-Metal is waterproof and has given me good results over the last few years on the Mustangs we've restored. That is what I'd recommend, since welding would be difficult at best.

I also had the same problem on my '39 cab. I definately agree with Clint's method. That Metal-2-Metal stuff is pretty darn hard and holds up very well against anything. I think that would be your best bet.

Everyone,

Thanks for the feedback.

I did have the entire cab blasted inside and out so I asssume what is left is thin but solid. Sounds like this is common on the 39 - 46 style cab.

I guess I'll try to figure out how weak the area is before I go forward. They painted the cab after blasting with epoxy primer. So no mater what method I use I will have to get the paint back off. I like the idea of plugging the holes some how, but worry about how much grinding the metal will support. If it doesn't look good I will use the body filler method.

Is Metal-to-Metal a brand name or a type of body filler?

Bill Schickling

I currently got my 4t6 cab back with similiar problems, The lower front cowl under front fenders I cut out and used a panel flange and spot welded. Cab corners weren't to bad so I used mig with copper backing plate. Some holes got bigger as stated above. I am considering using a product called Lab Metal. I read some good reviews but never used. But with the long winters up here we have a lot of time

Dan

red58,

What is the process for soldering? Basically the same as sweating copper pipe?

Dan

Bill:

Metal-2-Metal is an Evercoat product. You should be able to find it at most any Body Shop Supply. It has aluminum powder in the epoxy mix. BTW, the folks at the PPG Store advised using filler over the epoxy. I've done this for years with absolutely no problems. Good Luck.

Chev4t6,

New Hartford - Your not too far east of me. Sounds like our cabs are in very similar shape. The front corner under the fender line and the belt line have all the damage.

One funny thing that appeared was a 1/2 inch hole and four 1/8 holes on the roof that must have been for some sort of light. It is right in the center of the roof, so it made me think of an emergency vehicle or something. I don;t know any of the previous owners so it is a mystery.

Clint,

I will look into this. I am not a welder so I either need to dive in and buy a mig welder or use a product like you describe.

Thanks,

Bill Schickling

My '46 1/2 ton had a few pinholes in the same area.. back of the cab in the "beltline" area.

I saw an old school dude on American Hotrod do some body work with lead.. and I just happened to have some old lead battery terminals laying around.. so after sanding the area down to bare metal, I applied a lead patch, sanded smooth, and painted over it.

Lead ain't gunna rust or bubble.

I suspect this is simular to the solder method mentioned earlier in this thread.

Bill, I got the same thing on my cab roof. The PO just bondoed over the holes. I put a visor on it & covered it up till I get to it. :rolleyes: