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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,267 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 | Hello; I am planning on sand blasting my frame tomorrow and if time permits would like to give it a coat of epoxy primer right after. Is there any problem with painting in direct sun? It is supposed to be about 79 degrees and full sun. I am thinking the frame would be to hot and not let the primer cure properly.
Thanks Mark | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Blow it clear/clean with a shop vac or leaf blower unless your sure your air supply is oil vapor free. You don't want that under the epoxy. A tarp would do what you need to keep the sun off. Wear approved air and eye protection shooting epoxy. Go for it.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 | Thanks CASO, so its better in the shade then. My air is pretty good but will use the shop vac to blow it off. I have a respirator and goggles ready to go. I painted the front axel and springs already to get use to staying the epoxy. Went on really nice.
Mark | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | You don't want the epoxy to dry on top to fast. It needs to off gas evenly. You don't want to trap them (the 'gasses')
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | So THAT's what happened to my hood a while back! Turned iridescent and gray. Should have been black.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 | That was easy ups are for.🤔 | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Excuse my ignorance, but Huh?
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Easy ups sounds like tent....no?
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 | I wondered as well....My frame is 17' long so i would need a long tent. :-) | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 241 | One other question I have is once my frame is painted and assembled back to a rolling chases, is it ok to be stored out side in one of those tent type garages or will the temperature changes have any affect IE rust? I live in Canada where we get some extreme temperature swings. I assume since I have blasted and epoxy primed before paint it should be ok. It would be nice to store it out of the way while I work on the cab and body parts.
Mark | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | If you've gotten it well derusted and coated, it should be fine. Alternatively, you could lean the frame up against the shop wall inside to reduce it's floor space requirement. Be sure to secure it to the wall.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 186 | If you put 2K primer over the epoxy primer your good forever.. | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Don't put anything over the epoxy. When your ready to work on it again just scuff it good with 180grit and apply filler or your 2part primer. Nothing is going to beat epoxy for protection except better epoxy...
Edit: if it was me I'd shoot 3 coats of SPI black epoxy and be done with it. Let it sit out it won't care. It has uv inhibitors.
Last edited by CASO; 09/24/2016 8:21 AM. Reason: add
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
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