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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 63 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 63 | Good day Everybody,
Can any body tell me the best way to cover -hide weld seams in firewall-toeboard.Is regular body filler ok or do any of you know of something better? Sounds like a dumb question coming from someone thats done a fair amount of body work,but as I replace the floor and toe board I discovered that this part of cab also supports the weight of the front of the cab as well as keeping your feet in,thus I think there might be some stress or slight flexing when truck returns to the road.I would rather just paint the welds than have picies of filler poping out.But my first choice is to cover and finish the welds.If you used filler-what kind?How is it holding up under use.Thanks for the input Aaron :rolleyes: | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Aaron,
A paintable, flexible body-seam sealer/filler is working fine in my Suburban (but, it has only been in for about three years). The sealer/filler was applied (as per directions) over the epoxy primer. We then painted over the it with the interior finish paint (single-stage urethane, DCC from PPG).
Tim | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | tclederman, Your reply sent me searching and cleared up some ambiguous terms for me. Single stage merely means not base coat/clear coat, which would be a TWO STAGE process. A single stage can be a two part paint...2k...catalyzed. Clear as mud! A single stage can be a two part paint and a two part paint can be a used in a two stage process.  Stuart. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Stuart,
It took me a while to figure that out, too. I hope we are correct.
Tim | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Tim, Me too!
Aaron,
My auto paint store has a bazillion types of sealer/caulks/adhesives and figuring out what to use was tough. I bought several 14.4 oz tubes of a product called "fast & firm" autobody seam sealer. Although I used it in an industrial setting and not on a car or truck, I noticed this; It did dry fast and it did dry firm, but it also became stiff and cracked soon after application.
I think the benchmark of a good caulk would be the ability to stay flexible. My AD cab has a very sound floor/toeboard, but it has seams you could drive a Mack truck through...let me know what works for you and I will follow your lead.
Stuart. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Stuart,
Look at the other thread in this forum about sealing a roof "gutter". A two-part sealer is mentioned - I now recall that we used on the interior seams a two-part sealer that cured to a paintable semi-flexible(?) state (my friend worked in a auto-paint shop). Sorry, but I do not know the brand of product that was used (it came with its own two-part applicator "syringe").
Tim | | |
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