The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Engine swap

I have a 1956 Chevy 1/2 pickup that has 6cyl with 3 speed manual trans. I am looking to install 350 engine with 350 auto. What mounts do I need and do I need to change the rear axle ratio? Thanks. Any info would help.

You will need to go to get side mounts for the engine and a trans mount. We usually use Chassis Engineering out of Iowa since they offer both bolt in or weld in engine/transmission mounts. DO NOT mount the V8 on the factory front mounts and the transmission tail housing mount. If you traded your Turbo 350 for a 400R4 overdrive automatic your factory rear end (a 3.90) is perfect and could be left in. There is floor pan clearance for a 400 trans in a 56 IIRC but if not there is NOTHING WRONG with a 200 4R that's built correctly. Art Carr offers a 1000hp unit with a GUARANTEE. One of the guys in the shop is running a guaranteed 1500hp rated 2004R in his bad to the bone 66 Nova drag car that's been trouble free. These units are very pricey so if there is room go with a 400.

Evan,
Did you mean 700R4?
Fred

What model(s) and years of Toyota does one need to look for the proper steering box? What other stuff needs to be acquired to make this swap as easy as possible? Thanks.

Engine swap-----Toyota steering box? Hi-jack in progress. Lol

Found engine mounts but do not see trans mounts for 56 at chassis engineering website

Might check with Fatman Engineering.

Just get the tubular crossover type. Nearly same for motor as for trans. Easy to do, adjustable and no welding(unless you want to.) Common method. Your TH350 will be just fine. Been there done that. Those "Engineering" shops are high dollar sometimes and you don't need fancy. If you can weld and want "special" mounts, go for it. But 350/350 is standard swap.

CLICK these.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-V-8-Crossmember/productinfo/79-405/#.V7ZsC-n6s5s

http://www.classicparts.com/1941-59-Transmission-Crossmember/productinfo/79-505/#.V7ZsH-n6s5s

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-72-Front-Motor-Mounts-pair/productinfo/79-015/#.V7ZsWen6s5s

http://www.classicparts.com/1941-81...d-Shift/productinfo/79-208/#.V7Zss-n6s5s

TOTAL about $130

Axle ratio: Non overdrive trans have final ratio 1:1
Check your diff ratio. Stamped on ring gear. Stock would be 3.90 or 4.11. ouch!
You do not need to change the diff ratio unless there is something you don't like about acceleration or highway speed after swap. All depends on what kind of use the truck gets. You will have to get your driveshaft modified for this swap. Proper front yoke and length probably. Pretty cheap at a good ol boy shop.

P.S. I have reported Beltfed's Off Topic Hijack to AAA, KOA and NASCAR.

Sorry guys, I screwed up. I posted my add on question in the wrong place.
AAA will not provide me maps for thirty days now and NASCAR has upgraded my Bristol race seats to a sky box as they like people who 'bend' the rules.

Do I leave the current cross member in?

Yes, definitely meant 700R4. We have been messing with them since they first came out and for the first couple years were kind of fragile except for the Corvette. I believe the 86-93 were the ones with the four pin plug and were the most sought after. I remember we used to use a Chrysler oil pressure switch and also a Suburban dual brake light switch for converter lock up before the harnesses were offered but that memory has long since faded away. Now all all the crate engines we use are the LS series and come with some 4L60's but mostly 4L80's and harnesses so it's mostly just plug and play anymore.

I believe you are talking about the cross member that the bell housing feet attach to. It will probably be in the way. De-rivet it and save it.
The front cross member will be left alone. Be sure you mock up the motor and trans with the new cross members and pads bolted to trans and motor so you can see any problems. Need to check clearance of the front cross member to the bottom motor pulley, adjust for fan, firewall, exhaust and steering clearances. Just rest the motor, trans and their cross members on the frame, hung off a cherry picker/stands and study it all for one sleep over. Carb mounting surface level. Motor has "built in" 3-4 deg down angle. This all needs to be done with the front clip off. Comes off in one 250lb piece. Hood, radiator and bumper off first, then clip, then old motor/trans. If you have done this before let me know. I don't want to tell you what you already know. If you need any more help, no problem. Lot's of guys/gals here have done it and have great advice/suggestions.
I see a year ago you were talking front end/brakes, did you do that yet?

Any ideas on how to hook up shift linkage? Going from manual to automatic.

Since the crossmember below the bellhousing also acts as a brace for the back end of the front springs, I usually encourage people to fabricate a drop-down crossmember from square tubing that will clear the automatic transmission bellhousing while still providing stability for the frame rails.
Jerry

Like, what do you want to do? Use the column shifter? There are instructions on here for that.
There is a neat shifter available that looks like a 4 speed truck shifter, but it shifts the auto (thru the floor). Lokar Nostalgic shifter.
I know what Jerry is saying. When I did it I guess I figured the "new" cross member was close enough to support the area. I will have to look at my pictures to see what I did.

Such great info. I am looking to use the column shifter. Where are the instructions for that?

here's pics of modifying the column shift box to use with an automatic - as Bart says been discussed someplace here before - won't have the indicator quadrant, but that can be worked out too

Bill

Good time to try learning the search function on here. I'm not good at it yet either. Maybe someone will find the threads.

I tried several search phrases. No luck.
If you are mechanically inclined and can fiddle and diddle and fabricate then here is the issue. (generically) The 3 speed shifter operates rods which operate levers which pulls and pushes on linkage connected to the two trans levers on your 3 sp.
The spring loaded box allows for alternating between linkage rods to operate one of the trans lever or the other.
The auto only has one lever, only needs one link. Does not need spring loaded "H" pattern ability. So, as Bill has pictured, one idea is to modify box/linkage to operate the TH350 lever. Straight line movement. Figuring out if the throw on the column is enough for the TH350 lever rotation is the key. You can see in Bill's pics they used a carb style ball joint rod end or two and maybe a bell crank. I think I read where it is hard to tell what gear(PRND) you are in with this mod, but after a few weeks you will have it mastered...or make a PRND plate. I would suggest using a swivel eye ball and bolt connection. The nostalgic kit is easier, nicer and cool looking. Take your pick.

I used Heim joints (or as under-medicated Arizonians say, "swivel eye balls") on my '49. I know it is a different animal than your '56, but its close enough to apply.
I found that matching the length of the shifter box arm with the length of the transmission lever, gives you a good feel on the shifts, while not exceeding the limited range of movement of the gear shifter on the column.
I used 5/16" Heim joints and a 5/16" steel rod from Lowes which I threaded to fit the Heim joints. I had to make 2 bends in the vice to clear the brake pedal lever and the toe board.
I set up the length of the rod so that the "Drive" position of the column shifter would be at the 3 o'clock position.
Carl

Arizonan, (under-educated Virginianite).
Swivel eye, ball joints. Maybe.
Heim joint sounds dirty.
56trucknut, don't listen to Carl. You can set up the rod any time of day.

did the 3100 series come with auto trans? Maybe I could find one in a scrap yard.

my first guess would be no.. and if the answer is yes
it would probably be hard to find an automatic from one in a
scrap yard..............automatic not your problem,you can find them ever where...

Yes, auto was available. As Joker says, hard to find. Don't know if parts available to rebuild and not modern design. Also needs automatic column shifter and linkage from a donor. Don't think it would fit the 350 motor. I would not go down that road.

Simplest swap is 350/350, adjustable cross member and Lokar shifter. Several options here so far. Think it over. Others may give their opinions as to what is best. May need a radiator change. Are you on a tight budget? What is your experience with truck mechanical. Do you have the equipment to do this or is someone going to do it for you/help you?
I guess if you left the 6 cyl in, the scrap yard auto would bolt on.
From the web:
GM's four-speed Hydra-Matic. It was available with the six and the V-8. The truck Hydra-Matic was the same unit used by Cadillac and Oldsmobile.

fix it up like this 56, it was at the reunion a few yrs back, I wanted so much to buy it.......dont know if he ever sold it...
check it out

I am doing all the mechanical work myself. I just got done with a 69 chevy but left it original. I already have too much invested in it the so budget went out the window. I have a 350/350 which is what I am planning on putting in. There is a scrap yard close to me that is full of old vehicles so I thought I would have a look anyway. Any ideas on what type of radiator I will need? Half of the enjoyment of this is all the different ideas.

what cha going to do with your 72

Not sure how the old Hydra's were cooled. Saw the words "oil cooler" in a manual. The newer autos, of course, need a trans cooler type radiator. Always fun to check out the wrecking yards. The ones that are left here are too much like a store. Some have there own TV program. I never go to them. Picked over, high prices and rude people. OK for newer stuff I guess. Lots of places in the U.S. still have the good old search and rescue junk yards where the guy lives there and will wheel and deal. Miss that here. Government regulations have ruined that industry and the chromers.

not sure how joker knows I have a 72 but that is the one the 350/350 is coming from. Sold the body. The 69 I just got done with was a pickup my Dad bought new. Took my driver's test in that. 3 on the tree. That goes to my daughter someday.

20/08/16
"I just picked up a 1972 Chevy stepside pickup. How popular are these trucks. Kind of rough shape."

I am thinking of putting a Toyota power steering box on my 56. Question is what years am looking for and can I use my column?

The Toyota PS box that is commonly used is from an 84-87 4x4.
The possibility of finding one in a wrecking yard is probably slim to none. In addition, you would need the mounting bracket, pitman arm, and drag link. You would probably be better off buying the complete kit. I retained the stock column with the 3 speed shifter when I did mine. Since you are going with an auto trans, it would be less work using an aftermarket column which is already set up for the auto.
Fred

The aftermarket supplier that I use now has a new "Toyota" reproduction steering box. Complete new castings and internal parts. Not sure of the pricing. Check out abspowerbrake.com.