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| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 79 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 79 | Looking to buy a 1949 chevy truck 1/2 ton. What year 235 eng. can I look for to install without a lot of problems would like to get away from the close driveshaft. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | " . . What year 235 eng. can I look for to install without a lot of problems . . "
Any 235 will install into a 1949 truck.
1. Use the 1949 clutch housing and clutch assembly.
2. If it is a 1955 or later 235 with the water pump body below the head, you will need to install a water pump relocation plate (from Pre '68 Dave).
" . . . can I look for to install without a lot of problems, would like to get away from the close driveshaft. . "
You will incur more "problems" and $$ accomplishing this. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 | Hi Tim , not sure what you would call "problems" . I have a '56 truck diff in my '40. with the original 4spd. Of course there was some cost involved getting a driveshaft made to fit and having the rear of the g/box to make a working seal , but it has been there for 20yrs and 80k miles , no problems 
Last edited by Dusty; 08/18/2016 11:57 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | The choice of rear-end is independent of the choice of 235.
The install of any 235 in Ted's 1949 truck would pose fewer "problems" than would a drive-shaft/rear-end change. So, any year 235 would be OK.
I'd go for a 1954/55st 235 for the easiest installation.
However, I think the 1956 or later 235s are better choices, but a little more work (waterpump relocation).
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 | I see where you are coming from now Tim , I was focused on the closed driveshaft issue that the OP raised . | | |
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