The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk drag link

Ok I am still trying to figure out best option for the drag link on my 51 half ton...1st I haven't got the old one apart yet because I cant get the end plug to move at all...still trying..I am confused as far as replacing the whole piece with the modern tie rod ends...I have an article form CPP saying to replace the drag link ends with their new tie rod ends...I don't think the original drag link shaft is threaded is it ? then they say they offer a kit that comes with the ends and a shaft...has anyone used this setup ? they also say no need to taper the holes...just knock out the old ball and shove the new tie rod in the holes. would like to hear from anyone who has experienced this set up first hand

1951 3100

The end plug WILL unscrew, (you may think that it doesn't). I took a small chisel and ballpein hammer, (a non-bfh hammer), and a huge dose of penetrant, and kept working it. Pay attention to the order of how the spacers and the spring come out. There is a hole across the end of the link, which I figured had a cotter pin in it at one time, probably to keep the end plug from ever coming out. My reasoning was if I tore this up, I could always replace it with the newer design, which I didn't want to do. It does come apart, and you'll see the cup shaped spacers inside, that wedge against the ball end of the taper shaft. At the time, I could not find any type of protective seal to go back over the slots, so I made some out if inner tube. But I have since seen some that are specifically made for these, (I don't remember which vendor had them, but they are made).

Mike

The CPP kits sounds like a good deal. Two ends and the threaded rod, what more could you want. I switched my '37 over to the newer sealed tie-rod and dragline ends like CPP is offering. You do need to knock the old balls out so removing the arms is about mandatory. It's not that big of job getting them out once you drill into the back of them. GM peened the ends into the arms, and the hole through the arms is more hour glassed shaped then a straight round hole. With it peened over and the slight hour glass shape, the balls are held tight. The drill is to remove most of the peened metal, them you can press or drive them out the rest of the way. The new ends are straight shafted and drop right in with a nut and cotter pin to hold them.

The real advantage of the newer unit is the adjustability, you can center the steering wheel to the gear box for better driving truck.

When the original ball and socket joints get worn, the truck will steer hard and not be as smooth as it should be. The balls get egg shaped so when you turn, you not only have to fight the tire on the ground, but you also have to fight the springs in the tie rods. The springs hold the cups which hold the ball, it was GM's way of taking some of the harshness out of the steering wheel. Since these old trucks have a solid steering shaft and direct gear contact, the only give is in the tie-rods and drag link. I have not noticed any difference in how the steering feels on mine since switching, other then it's smoother and less messy when greasing it.

Joe

there is slop in the joint so is it safe to assume that the ball is probably shot or can I just tighten the screw by turning it in to het the thing tighter ? I am still not convinced that CPP is indeed selling the complete drag link kit or if they are selling the complete tie rod assembly that goes from wheel to wheel...that's kinda why I was hoping to find someone who has used one

It will not hurt anything to tighten the end plug (seats) against the ball.

Do it with the front end off the ground.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0303.htm

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0304.htm

You'll need a drag link socket in order to adjust it properly.

ok I got the dang thing apart finally with some help from a torch. heated the outside up and let it cool for a minute and was able to turn it out with a lot of muscle. the balls look good so I am going to just order the drag link repair kit and out it back together. Trying to stick under budget on this truck as I don't know if I am going to keep it just yet. I have another truck sitting in Montana I am going to go look at and then decide which one I want to keep. anybody looking for one stay tuned. I have a 1951 with a 54 235 motor and a cast iron power glide with a Dana rear end with 3:54 gears and the open driveline. good solid truck all converted to 12 volt with alternator and has the old school Fenton visor, aluminum slotted old school mag wheels with brand new tires...will see if I can add a picture soon