The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Wet sanding-----cab interior?

I am preparing to paint the interior of my '49 truck cab.

Sanding is always done more easily if wet sanding can be done. While my cab is rust free I really don't want all of that water to lurk about.

My truck is mostly a daily driver so it is not an off frame restoration, only a refurbising in between drives.

What have each of you done with sanding the cab interior?

Also, did you just primer the back of trim pieces, or did you also finish paint them? Seems a waste of good paint and time consuming since they won't be seen. You views please?

I painted the inside of my 56 daily driver with rattle cans. Sanded everything down real well, taped it all off and went to town. First with primer then enamel. I didn't wet sand at all as the finish was nice enough. Like you, my goal has been to resurrect not restore to original and I'm satisfied.

The only downside I've discovered is that it does scratch easily. I'm not sure if that's a function of the type of paint or what.

I masked everything first, then sanded everything with 320 grit. That way I didn't scratch any chrome trim. Primed with DP 40, primer sat for a couple weeks so I rescuffed everything with a red Scotch-Brite pad. Then I sprayed with DIU (DBU basecoat with no clear). Turned out good, leaves satin finish that's MUCH more durable that rattle cans.

Well I won't be using rattle cans as I have an air brush and a body shop quality touch up gun. Paint is cheaper in quantity and I can't tell you how many times over those sprayers have paid for themselves through savings.

Friends also know that I have these and will sometimes give me rattle cans of paint that no longer have propellent. Often freezing causes the propellent loss. Saves on buying--punch gingerly and dump into a container. Besides, you get a free marble.

For my '49 interior I'm opting for Rustoleum hammered finish gray. I have about a half can of automotive paint that is a medium silver. I may use it to two-tone the interior, or at least have a different color steering column. I have read that they were different from the rest of the cab.

My overall objective is to let people know that the cab interior has been refurbished but not restored, hopefully enhanced since the hammered gray will be offset with black headliner, black seat covers, black door panels, black arm rests, and of course a black floor mat and black rubber products. I also expect to "Plasti-dip" cover the steering wheel after cracks are filled.

Wish me luck as I will be tackling the work myself including sewing my own seat covers and making the arm rests.

To cover up your easily scratched paint, you might consider a spray on clear coating, polyurethane or otherwise. I expect that would toughen it up.

Pakrat47 you did it as it should be done. Mine is a 3800 which isn't as desirable to own or I might opt for the more costly automotive paint.

Thanks for the posts.

Thanks for the ideas Windy & Keith. I think I'll try the clearcoat route.

Windy, when you do your seats, consider adding two pockets along the front edge of the seat. I had that done and it's been one of the best for storing stuff like sunglasses, etc.

Good tip Larry Bear, I hadn't thought about putting pockets on the front edge of the seat. I did think about adding pockets to the center of the back of the seat where a third passenger would normall sit.
I rarely have one passenger, let alone two so figured on using the space.

I have also thought about making a removable center console. A work truck I drive has a cheap one of plastic covered with vinyl and it sure is handy. Have also thought about a carrier box on the floor between the transmission and the seat, something like 6" X 18" or so. It couldn't be very tall because of shifting. It would need to be fastened down so as not to become a missle in the event of an accident. I knew a guy that got clunked in the head with a 36" pipe wrench in a roll over. Safety first is sometimes learned the hard way. That was indeed the hard way.

Rust is usually caused by long term exposure of metal to water. You really shouldn't worry about wet sanding it as long as you dry it out thoroughly - and then use a rust inhibitor solvent.

Do your initial wet sand, trying not to go to bare metal. Rinse out cab and let dry. Use a rust inhibiting metal prep solvent, along with a wax and grease remover. Body fill/putty any scratches, sand and prime. Wet sand again, making sure you avoid sanding through the primer and body fill. Rinse out cab and let dry. Use a prep solvent again and spray your topcoat.

Say Windy, what did you mean by "Plasti-dip"ping the steering wheel?? Is that the stuff you dip hand tools in?? how're you gonna go about that??

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

Yes, Plasti-dip is the material you dip handtools into to produce grips. I first read about some folk using it on their tractor steering wheels over at Yesterday's Tractors site ( http://www.ytmag.com ).

Several have made a shallow tray shaped just as the particular wheel they will be dipping. That way it doesn't take so much product.

I will try a different approach as I noticed on the can that it can be thinned and spray applied.
As a matter of fact the stores now carry a spray rattle can version of it on their shelves.

I think the company must have changed hands with some changes to the can, but it appears to still be the same product.

I think that the plastic gripping material would give a nice feel to the wheel, clean up easily, etc.

Patching the wheel cracks and spraying it is something I will be trying. The YTMag folk seem to prefer JB Weld for patching rather than fiberglass putty.

I'll post back once I give it a try. Probably down the road a bit.