The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop remove (eliminate) oil filter 235

hello again.
ever since i rebuilt the motor (54 235 car motor) my oil filters look like this
oil filter
What you are seeing is the filter element being pushed out of the holes of the filter. Had a discussion on here about it a couple of years ago, and general consensus was that I had it hooked up correctly, and with it being a bypass filter it probably wasn't causing harm.
So, about 5,000 on the rebuild, and I am just going to remove the filter setup.

So the question is, should I run a hose between the two ports on the engine, or just plug them.

If I run a hose between them, should I put in a restricter of some sort that mimics the filter setup (~1/16" hole?), or just let it run without restriction. I am a little hesitant to just plug the holes because something doesn't seem right if it is pushing the filter out of the housing. If it has provided correct internal oiling for the last 5,000 miles, I don't want to change that oil flow and in turn ruin something.

What have others done? Suggestions?
Thanks.

You can just plug them. The only one that needs a bypass hose if the filter is removed are the late 261s with the full flow oil filter.

If the media is being pushed out of the holes in the filter, you have the flow going backwards. Oil should enter from the side of the canister, flow through the filter media from the outer circumference toward the center, and exit out the bottom of the canister to the hole in the block just above the oil pan rail. The only way media will get displaced the way the picture shows is to push oil from the center toward the outside. Swap the hoses around so the oil from the fitting where the pressure gauge line attaches goes to the side of the canister.

If you choose to eliminate the filter, just plug the holes- - - -the oil passages to the bearings won't be affected.
Jerry

Just read your previous posts on this. If you connected it as stated(inlet on the side, drain out the bottom) I don't see how the filter media could be coming OUT of the sides of the filter. If anything, it should be being pushed in. I don't get it.

Backward X3. IMHO any filtration is better than none.

Bishop, send me a PM if you want me to send you pictures of the installation. Pictures sometimes help, particularly if you are frustrated.

Is your filter canister an AC version? It has probably lost its decals and original paint over the years, but you can check out this link to identify--

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html

As stated above, the inlet is on the side of an AC canister, the outlet on the bottom.

There are other aftermarket canisters out there (e.g. Fram) that sometimes had both the inlet and the outlet on the bottom...plus some had a threaded bung for a drain plug. On these canisters, the outer hole on the bottom is usually the inlet, the inner hole the outlet. If you have one of these canisters and can attach pix of both the inside and the outside, I am sure that other 'bolters can help you to sort it out.

If you don't have an AC canister with the side inlet but want one so that you can be sure that the installation is bulletproof, send me a PM and I can probably find one for you.

Good luck,

Matt

Hey guys, thanks for all the responses! didn't really get many bites when I first posted about the oil filter problem. definitely made me 'pucker up' when I did the first oil change and the filter looked like that.
I checked the pictures and posts on here about the AC can, and location/ routing of oil lines. Everything is correct. 54 AC filter canister, lines from block to canister. even watched when cranking, and oil comes out the port in the side of the canister, with none coming up from the bottom.
But the pushing of oil from the bottom up does concern me and that is why I was just going to remove the darn thing.

My main concern is why is this happening? I am just not familiar enough with the internal oil passages and flow in this motor. Did a passage get plugged during rebuild? If I plug this flow, will it starve some other part? Jerry says that the flow to the bearings won't be affected, so that helps me feel better.

Something to chew on.....

Thanks guys.

The bottom line is just a basic drain line straight to the crankcase. There should be no pressure on that line.
If you have an air compressor, disconnect the line from the canister and blow through it, you should hear unrestricted air in the crankcase.

re. disconnecting the bypass oil filter. I've got a 235 engine ready to go into my 3100 whenever I decide to pull the trigger. It's never had a bypass oil filter and the return port on the block is capped and the oil pressure tap doesn't have a Tee for multiple line hookup, it just feeds to the oil pressure gauge. So if you want to remove the oil filter just cap the return ports, remove the Tee and connect the gauge line straight to the block. Don't run a line as it's not needed.

re. correct hookup of the bypass oil filter. Make sure the bottom return line isn't tapped into the pressure oil gallery that runs the length of the block. The gallery boss is clearly visable running fore to aft. The tap to the crankcase is mush lower in the block towards the front of the engine.

Good luck
Dave

Here are by-pass filter ports on a 1954 235 block.
As posted above, if you have no by-pass oil filter the return port in the block gets plugged with a bolt/plug, and the oil filter line connects to the block at the rear port (which would have been connected to the filter inlet line).

Only about 10% of the oil flows into the filter at any given time. Mine is a big canister(tall and fat) with a drain on the bottom. I think it came from a bus or a big truck. Any way, it took a few tries to get it plumbed correctly. The drain was the easy bit, just a hole near the bottom. Fit a valve and a line to help with the drain process(it works well and reduces the mess when changing the filter). The "pressure side is the bottom center fitting(and I did take the time to clean it out and push some air through, dirt is not your friend). The side fitting was then plumbed to the "drain" on the block. Found the "filter element" at the local FLAPS after I measured it. Mine was a WIX brand and it is still on the shelves at the parts store. Flow through the filter is center to outside...makes sense, the support screen is on the outside of the element. The most worrisome bit of the whole project, was the Brass fittings on the hoses. They are easy to break if one is not careful. I like the filter, and how it looks. I did run a 1950 216 with out a filter for years. It was fine. Kind of a slow motion oil change system. I was never able to fix all of the leaks, so just added as I went along. That motor lasted as my daily driver to work and back for 7 years, then my Brother drove it for work for another 3 years. Rod bearing failed at around 300,000 miles. Not bad for a 20 year old truck back in the 1970's.

Steve's post indicates that a bypass filter will work, even when it's plumbed backwards.
Jerry