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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 | Electrically challenged here, so I hope these questions aren't too dumb. First, my '48 GMC has been converted to 12V, negative ground. The wiring harness has been replaced with a modern kit that included a new headlight switch. It also has new, modern gauges. I don't like the look of the switch and am wondering if I can use an old 6V headlight switch in place of the ugly new one.
Second, I've replaced the new, non-functioning speedometer with a good original one and want to know if I can splice in the original 6V instrument light sockets and use 12V bulbs. The new wiring is a smaller gauge, numerically higher, than the old 6V wire.
As always, thanks for your help! Jim
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | Should work fine. Not sure if your old switch has a built in dimmer. That could be affected? Higher voltage less current that,s why smaller wire is okay. Using a 6 volt socket with a 12 volt light should be fine.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | X2. Switches and sockets don't care about voltage. They care about current which is lower with 12v than 6v.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 | Thanks GWWirth and Tiny. I was pretty sure it would work, just wanted to make certain.
The old 6V switch I'll use still has a short length of the original wires attached, though they don't match up exactly with the wiring diagrams I have. Still, I should be able to figure out what goes where.
What would be the best way to clean up the old switch? It's between a little grungy and sorta dirty---not scientific terms but I hope descriptive enough.
Thanks again. Jim
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | Hard to say without seeing it. Make sure you have continuity (the circuits are good) before you spend a lot of time purtying it up. A multi-meter is best for that.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Clean the switch with brake cleaner. Look at the can it should be alchohol. Safe to use on the switch. You can use compressed air to dry. Look for the contacts at the rear of the switch. They are the "circuit breaker" for the headlights. if they are clean and straight it should be OK. The last bit to look at is the ceramic disk at the front. That is the dimmer control. It should be clean and the nichrome wire should be unbroken. After that you should be good to go. As previous posters have said, a 6 Volt switch(automotive only) is rated at more current than a 12 Volt switch. Current matters. Volts, not so much.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 | Continuity looks good and the switch seems to be working according, to my multi-meter. Preliminary cleanup went well, everything looks intact. I don't think I'll go too crazy on the purtying up but a little cleaner would be nice.
Thanks, Guys. Jim | | |
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