The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop How to pull an engine

Hi
I'd like some feedback on the best way to pull a 216 from a '49 3100. With or without Trans? Do I have to take off the radiator frame? Should it come off to the tail shaft?

Welcome,

First remove transmission because it won't fit* over crossmember. *I know the 4 speed won't, but could the 3 speed fit?

Next see if someone has already hacked, cut, or made removable the bar at the top of radiator support. If this bar is missing or removable you can remove radiator only and pull engine.
If you have a complete functioning radiator support I urge you NOT to hack it up and remove that bar, unless you want to eventually bust radiators by flexing them.
Instead remove the entire front clip complete by unbolting fenders and inner fenders at the cab only, and radiator support at frame only, and the fender support rods.

Removing the whole front clip is pretty quick and makes a pleasure to get to engine.

If you have full radiator support in place, remove radiator and transmission, and want to pull engine it will have to wiggle a d tip and pretty much stand straight up on the back end to get out past the radiator support. I've done this a couple times and do not recommend it, I won't do it again.

Grigg

First of all, get a pressure washer or steam cleaner and ruthlessly clean all the dirt, grime and grease from every inch of the engine, frame and transmission.

Remove the hood.

The radiator frame has a top piece that unbolts with three bolts on each side. Take that off and see if the next frame has been cut out for clearance. If not you have the choice of cutting it away or dismantling farther. Also take off the front pan over the grill area.

Use a 2 Ton hoist, with the longer lift arm.

If this is a four speed take it out first, use a trans floor jack. The sm420 is really heavy and more so with a PTO.

Remove the engine mount bolts going through the frame on the rear mounts and the two going through the frame on the front. disconnect all the other lines and wires and pull it out

Thanks both of you. You saved me lots of time and frustration. I'll def. remove the Trans first. I've already cut the floor out so I can easily get to the Trans. Bolts. There wasn't much floor left. Any tricks to removing the Trans? I've got the truck up on stands. The block is stripped clean on both sides. How do I deal with the drive shaft tube? Does that come off first?

What are your thoughts on using an equalizer on the cherry picker to tilt and level? Yes I have a four speed. I'd add pictures if I knew how.

I'm not familiar at all with the torque tube/driveshaft.

Once that is disconnected the transmission is easy to remove with 4 bolts. May also want to remove the shifter (you said 4 speed). Push down on the sheet metal collar and give a partial turn counter clockwise then just lift the shifter stick out.
Some use an engine hoist through the door to lower transmission to the floor. Or a transmission jack, or a forklift with side shift makes it real easy

Load leveler is fine to use.
Without one I've use a polyester endless sling snugged around the approx middle or balance point of the engine threaded through the manifold, down under the oil pan, and back over the valve cover. Use a small chain or ratchet strap to the front motor mount plate just to take this last couple pounds and keep the front end up if needed. This way slung from the center you can still tilt and wiggle the engine as if you had a load leveler.

Disconnect the torque tube by taking out the bolts and sliding things back to expose the u-joint. I haven't done this in years, so check out the tech tips and do a search. There is an old thread here on this.

When you put the trans back in it may help to make some alinement pins by cutting the heads off some bolts that can screw into the bell housing. One pin must be shorter than the other to get it out when you are done. I just did this after reading someone's post in here.

Are you rebuilding this engine?

Thanks, and yes. The engine is a must for right now. There were too many components missing..distributor, fuel pump, valve cover cap. I'm certain there were critters living in the gas tank was also open. I cleaned a bucket of nut shells out of it. The floor was shot so I cut it out. The truck has been dead since 79-80. It was recently rescued from A Missouri field and trucked to Phx. Where I recently bought it after the kid had second thoughts. I didn't get a title but After researching I found the original owner since his name and farm were painted on the doors.
The starter and generator were both packed with trash and dirt. The frame and engine had almost an inch of dirt and grease covering every inch. The intake had a glove stuck in it. Most of the door hardware is missing and there is no seat just a frame. Zero wood left in the bed and it's been hit on all four corners.

My plan is to make it safe and drivable and put it up for sale in its rusty dented patina of green and rust. I've been collecting tools and apperatus to pull, rebuild and replace the engine, brakes, clutch, steering, electrical 6v system, driveline and tires.
Any thoughts?

I think you have grabbed a tiger by the tail.

While certianly feasible to do the work I wouldn't start on such an extensive project with the intent to sell it. Unlikely you'll recover all the money invested in the repairs/parts not to mention your own labor.

Nothing wrong with working on these trucks as a money pit though. I have plenty more money in one of my trucks than it is worth and the other will probably get to that point before I'm done with it. I'm doing the work and spending the money because I enjoy both the process and end result, no plans to ever sell them.

Grigg

Well said Grigg

WOW, I don't recall anyone buying one in the condition you describe with the intention of getting it running and driving then sell it in all its rusty glory. Hope you just love working on these old beasts because your not destined to make a dime even if you got it for free. It's a huge money pit. They are great therapy to work on so hopefully you get much enjoyment out of it before you sell.

+ 1,000,000

I must agree with Grigg and the others, if you GIVE it away now, you will end up with more money in your pocket than if you get it running and safe and then sell it! If you enjoy working on them and want something to do and the money doesn't matter, then go for it!

I did it. It's out. You weren't kidding. That suckers heavy. I rigged up a sling over the top Of the cab. I strapped the trans and cinched it up after dropping the crossmember and getting the TT out of the way. I pulled the bolts and slid it back. I ratcheted it down on a dolly, laid it over and pulled it out. I was very pleased with myself. Next is the hood removal and then the engine. I'll be very relieved to have it out and on the stand.
I plan to pull the top off the tranny just to see if the gears are showing wear. Then button it up and clean the outside.
I was surprised to see there were no needle bearings and no caps on the u-joint. Must self lube from the trans oil.

yes, you will never make your money back, these trucks are far from an investment. More like the exact opposite of an investment.

Hi again,
Let me catch you up. There was a plate I had to remove before I could get To before I got the torque tube to slide back just enough to get a 3/8 wrench on the u-joint bolts. One of them gave me a fit. I had to notch it with a grinder to get a hold of it. Finally free, I found out how heavy that assembly is. I could se that the trans wasn't going to have enough room to come back so I had to drop the crossmember. Fairly easy but watch out. The TT is heavy and only goes one way. Down! I took off the clutch master cylinder when I found it frozen and unmovable.
It made getting to the trans bolts easier unhook the front of the clutch pedal spring to loosen the throughout arm. There are only 4 bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing. It's the crossmember out of the way, I made a sling out of ratchet straps to cradle the trans after I loosened the bolts. I ran a strap over the top of the cab for support. With the bolts out the trans slide free. I decided to go down(probably the wrong idea) I could have brought it us and out through the cab. But instead I lowered it onto a wheeled dolly and drug it out shifter handle intact.

I decided I'd replace a few broken wheel studs. After removing the wheel on left rear i found a cracked drum, pads down to metal, frozen cylinder and just a mess. I have to remove the cover on the knuckle to free the axles to replace lugs. Ugh!

I moved to the right side and found that someone had taken a torch to the drum. Apparently the braked were seized and they didn't want to bother. Instead they cut a circle around the studs separating the studs from the drum. I just sat there staring.

After pricing all the parts in my head it was going to be a huge kick in the groin.
I was lucky enough to find a complete rear end including the TT INTACT $400. and I'm a happy camper. Everything on the replacement works. The brake pads are even good. Lucked out.

Next was engine pull day. I picked up all the apparatus off of CL. Cherry picker, engine stand, jack stands, parts washer solvent tank. I bought a 2 ton load equalizer to hook on the picker. It saved my butt.
Two bolts in the back and two more in the front and I was ready to lift.
NOTE attach the load equalizer as close to the top of the engine as possible. You'll want every inch in height to swing your engine out.

I was able to swing it over a fender since I didn't have any room at the front. It was a bit of a circus but it worked.

Next was the bell housing. I lowered the engine so it sat just above a sturdy bench. The clutch plate, throw out bearing and pressure plate have to come out the bottom first. After removing the clutch bolts the pressure plate and clutch plate came out easily. Next loosen and remove the bolts on the fly wheel. It won't fall since it still on the hub. I had to rap my several times with a rubber mallet to loosen it. It slides out about 1/4" then falls out. Be ready to catch it. Gloves recommended.
Last, remove the screws from the front lower part of the housing where the sheet metal shield is attached. Then remove all the bolts but one. The last one should be loosened to finger tight so you can hold onto the housing th one hand. WARNING it going to be heavier that you think. It's just resting on a Cole of short pins at the top. And there ya go. Engine out.

Hey, I've seen the gallery pictures. You all have VERY very pretty trucks. I'm doing all the work myself. I'm retired so I'm basically free. I'm keeping my eye on what I buy to focus on only the necessary parts to make the truck drivable and reasonably safe. The market in AZ is a bit funny. People will buy something like this truck running and street worthy AND looking like crap for 5-10k. I'll straighten out the big dents to match the rest of the truck, weld up the cracks here and there and drive her around to a few parking lot shows. I don't think it'll take too long to hook a fish.

Nice work, Laz. I really enjoy reading yer progress. Man if you could, please post some Pics. Would LOVE to see what yer doing! -Lee

I'm not sure if I did this right.

http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/Jnlgaines/slideshow/Facebook/49%20Chevy%20Lazarus%20Project

That was awesome. Love the glove, the light switches, and the foil wrapped fuses! Thanks for posting! Love it! Good luck with the project, and please keep us posted on yer progress! -Lee

Okay guys,
I need some advise. I've removed the head and the pan. The engine looks pretty clean inside which surprised me seeing that the distributor and fuel pump have been missing for who knows how long. The piston tops have an appropriate amount of carbon 1/32" in spots. The edges are clean and the rings are clean and smooth. The cylinder walls are flawless. The rod bearings show no signs of wear beyond head gasket showed no signs of leakage or blow by. Oil pump gears run smooth and pump oil. Oil lines are tight and the crank turns with 15# of effort. The Val's look good, not burnt or oily. They seat tight and appear to be in goo condition. Tappers and pushrods are all in good shape, roll smooth and round. Tips are clean and not worn. Rocker arm faces are smooth and not pitted. All the head bolts were tight to specs but one near the center.

You know I'm trying to clean this bad boy up and send it on its way. As an individual, I would buy this truck knowing that there are probably at least 50k miles min. Before I'd need to tear it down again. As a mechanic, I feel that the parts I've seen and examined are well within normal wear specs for a used engine. I plan to clean off the carbon, run a hone down the cylinders and replace the Pistons. Put new gasket on the oil pump, clean the oil intake screen and pan. Replace the pan gaskets.

On the flip side I'll polish the head face and top of the block, replace the oil line gaskets. Polish the valve heads and reseat the headgasket and bolt down the head.

What else would you recommend?...

Lazarus, it might be a good idea to begin posting this story in the Project Journal thread directly above this one. You have switched subjects mid thread which makes it hard for those doing specific searches to find what is needed. You have a good story going and the Journal is the place to tell it.

Hi everyone.
Laz, here to let you know I'm starting a new thread in the Engine Shop. I'm obviously done with the pull so, my new thread will be "216, Rebuild, clean and replace or buy new?"

The funs not over yet!
Lazarus

Next time, unbolt the rear motor mounts and pull the bellhousing along with the engine. It's much simpler that way. It's also safer to put a wood 4X4 through both windows and use a cable come-along to handle the transmission. That SM-420 4 speed can get deadly if it falls on you while trying to remove it from the bottom.
Jerry