The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Manifold heat

I have a 1954 235 block,1957 848 head,261 cam,Fenton headers and stock intake. It doesn"t run good(spits and sputters) until it warms up realy well, then it runs fine. I am looking for a heat plate kit for the intake. I have seen 2 hole plates and a 1 hole plate for heat to the intake. Which one is better? What do I need for best results, both holes or just one?? Where is the best place to get them? Sorry for so many questions.THANKS for any help. Eric

One hole should work fine.

I think two holes look better with dual Fenton exhaust manifolds.

This kit seems to be expensive.

Not as elaborate but a better price.

I run dual heat, i.e. taking exhaust off each header. I tried single heat and determined the bottom of the intake manifold wasn't getting any considerable heat to benefit it's addition. Dual heat produced heat to the intake but no where near the stock single carb factory setup does.

Tom Langdon recommends piping heated coolant through the intakes heat chamber and will do his best to educate you to it's benefit over exhaust heat. The main drawback being the complexity over exhaust heat. He sells a kit for it if interested.
I opted to keep mine exhaust heated but have yet to run it on the road. all my tests are on a 235 on a run stand.

TOO much for me. I saw that one. I also looked at Jim Carter(he has a 2 tube kit) for $59.00 and Patricks(he has the one tube kit) for $39.00. I like the look of the 2 tubes. I think the 1 tube would look funny.I am just in the pricing mode right now,and looking to see if there anymore vendors that offer the 2 tube kit. THANKS Eric

Another drawback of the coolant/water heate-plate is: if you get a leak/break, then your cooling system is affected.

Also, Fenton intakes do not "flow" coolant throughout the intake, but Offenhauser and Clifford intakes do "flow" coolant from one side to the other of the intake (with the correct block-off/tube plate, that has a seal across the median/divider).

Exhaust gas heats the manifold quicker and gets hotter as well. When the engine needs manifold heat the worst is right after startup- - - -when the coolant is ambient temperature. Find a piece of 1" aluminum plate and some 5/8" OD copper tubing, plus a couple of compression fittings, and make your own heat plate. There's no sense in paying someone an outrageous amount to drill a few holes!
Jerry

X2 what Jerry said. The heat plate isn't hard to make. I went with the dual design as well.

I used the Jim Carter one on my '54 GMC and it works.

If you want to be creative, make the plate in 2 halves, top & bottom.
Now mill out a labyrinth in the upper surface of the thicker bottom plate making the longest path between where the 2 fittings will be placed.
Longer path = more heat delivered to the manifold.
Too hot? Restrict the water hose in 1 line.

By the time you buy fittings at almost $5.00 a piece x 4, a pipe tap for almost $8.00, copper tubing,(don't know if you can buy short pieces)$??? and the piece of 1 inch aluminum plate $??? and running all over town to find all of the parts' I think the kit from vendors is going to be the cheapest route for me. Does anybody know of any other vendors that sell the 2 tube kit?? If not I think I will go with the Jim Carter kit. I don't want water. Just another chance for a leak. Thanks for all of the replies. Eric

elm , if you wander around this thread , you will find my efforts on this subject : http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/dustys-truck-stuff.908428/page-3

I've posted several pics there.

Two sources of two different two-tube kits are in my post above (second post in this thread).