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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
E
New Guy
New Guy
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
I reconditioned an old Harrison heater and am installing it in my 1950 Chevy 3100. Do I need a temperature control valve of some sort, or do I connect the two water lines directly to the engine? Also, can anyone explain which line goes to which plug on the engine?


Ed Burgess
"It's all good!"
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,214
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,214
I have an old Arvin recirculating heater in my 49 3100. It's orginal and is your basic inexpensive heater option for the 3100 back in the day. I have to manually open the heater valve just below the thermostat housing in cold weather for heat and manually close it during warm weather as I don't want hot coolant circulating through the heater when heat is not wanted.
You should be able to make out the connections in the pic.
49 216 recirc heater connection

The smaller hose running along with the two heater hoses is the radiator overflow line.

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
It sounds like you have the recirculating type of heater. You can screw an on-off valve into the engine outlet. May be possible to somewhat regulate the heat by opening it like a garden valve but that would involve stopping and adjusting it underhood.

I added the valve shown in the linked picture with a cable to adjust flow or shut it off. I don't think it matters which hose goes to which fitting.
The water just makes a loop.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/Hookalatch/Heater/IMG_1752.jpg

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
If you don't have a valve it doesn't make a difference. If you do have a valve you want the hose from the thermostat housing to the valve and the return to the water pump.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,310
5
Renaissance Man
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5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,310
If you aren't worried about being a purist, you could put in a pull cable operated shut-off valve. This can be used in place of the Ranco valve, but without the leaking problem, and you will be able to completely shut off the water to the heater core in the summer from inside the cab. The Ranco valve in the wide open position still significantly restricts the flow of water to the heater core, so you will want to duplicate this somehow.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Originally Posted by 52Carl
If you aren't worried about being a purist, you could put in a pull cable operated shut-off valve. This can be used in place of the Ranco valve, but without the leaking problem, and you will be able to completely shut off the water to the heater core in the summer from inside the cab. The Ranco valve in the wide open position still significantly restricts the flow of water to the heater core, so you will want to duplicate this somehow.
Carl

Exactly what I did,I got one from a 400 series Rover in the junkyard,it's now controlled by the unused choke cable,so no additional dashboard clutter either.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.

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