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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
R Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
Sand blasting doesn't seem to get into the tight places. I'm really concerned that my expensive, not to mention knuckle-bleeding frame-up restoration will begin to bubble after only a couple of years unless I get all the rust. Is there 'anything' I can do, spray, etc. to go after those cracks after the blasting? All sheet metal will be primed with DP 90.
Thanks ahead of time.

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 662
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 662
Unless you park it in your living room, I'll put my money on the rust - it always wins. Metalprep will get into the joints, but needs to be rinsed and dried thoroughly. Zerorust suggests pouring their primer over seams and letting flow into the joint.

Now if you want to spend some $$
http://www.musclecarrestorations.com/ecoat.html
http://www.redi-coat.com/index.html

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 481
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 481
Picklex 20 is an excellent metal prep/rust converter that does not require rinsing before application of epoxy primer.

http://www.autobodystore.com/r-o-n.htm

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
R Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
I considered the dipping route, but couldn't find a place in over-regulated California. The parts are now in the confident hands of Ricardo Lopez (Customs by Lopez) in L.A. Again, my only real concern is what still lurks after the blasting. The Picklex 20 product does interest me and I wouldn't think thaty Ricardo would be offended if he sprayed this chemical into the cracks before applting the DP 20. But does it "really" work?
-jeff

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 13
O
Junior Member
Junior Member
O Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 13
How about "Por-15" ? Let it run in the seams or cracks. It's a mess but a good product I believe. Bill


Moderated by  klhansen 

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