BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Hello....
My 64 k10 with 283 v8 doesnt want to start after I've run the engine for a while. This is especially true in the summer months. If I drive to town, I have to wait at least 15/20 mins for the engine to cool before it starts over. If I try any sooner, the truck just tries to turn over with no luck.
Looking for some help understanding the problem and how to correct. I find myself leaving the truck running when I'm doing short errands because I can't count on it starting after a few mins.
Thanks in advance. John.
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | Sounds like a vapor lock to me through there are several other things that might cause it. I solved my vapor lock problem by installing a low pressure electric fuel pump near the gas tank on a spring loaded toggle switch. I'm sure others will have other solutions.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | If the timing is correct then I'd look at the ground, starter and battery. With it hot and the compression still on the engine all the above must be good. | | | | Joined: Dec 2015 Posts: 2,061 Big Bolt Forum Moderator | Big Bolt Forum Moderator Joined: Dec 2015 Posts: 2,061 | Do you mean it just spins and won't start, or that it acts like a dead battery? If the former, as Achipmonk and beltfed said, it sounds like fuel and/ or timing. Not sure which carb you have, if an edelbrock or carter, they can get hot and "boil over" and tend to flood th engine right after you shut it down. Pop the air cleaner off and look down the carb throat when it is real hot right after you shut it down and make sure it is not wet and dripping gas down the carb.
If the latter (acting like a dead battery) then it could be battery, cables, starter, or even may need a heatshield between starter and exhaust. My Suburban used to do the same thing when it got real hot, headers would heat up the starter and when real hot, acted like a dead battery. I added a 2nd 6 ga ground wire from battery to frame (had a spool of 6 ga and ends on the shelf) and made sure everything was clean. | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,715 Carburetion specialist | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,715 | Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Thanks guys. This was very helpful. After reading the thoughts about the gas, I decided to add no ethanol gas and followed the instructions in the link Carbking provided and the truck has started each time. I turn the engine over for a few seconds and then stopped. Pressed on the gas pedal about a third of the way and turn the ignition and she turned over.
I have a phenolic space between the carb and the manifold. That should help.
The carb is a Rochester 2 barrel.
Regarding the heat shield on the starter...any thoughts on what to do there? I don't want to replace the starter. Though a friend of mine thought I should instal a mini high torque starter.
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | |
| |