The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rusty, like in "REALLY rusty", screws

I've been trying for a few weeks to coax out the big, countersunk flathead body screws that attach the hinges, door posts, lower cab mounts on my '40 GMC. I've tried penetrating fluid (PB Blaster), etc. but still not having much luck. Last week I resorted to drilling a couple of them and using easy outs but all I have managed to do is twist the screw heads off, leaving what's left of the threaded part of the screw still in the hole. I'm considering just drilling the screws all the way out and re-tapping for the next size up or I've got a guy who's a whiz at building up the screw hole and re-tapping to the original size. Does anyone out there have any other (better) ideas for this?
Thanks

3 Girls'
A impact screwdriver usually will get anything out, especially after soaking and heat. If the part left behind isn't a hardened extractor or drill body then you can drill it out. Go up in steps until you get close to the major diameter of screw. A easy out will usually get it out then. You can use Heli-coils if you want to get back to the same thread size, which might be good if the fastener is real specific to your old truck. The very LAST thing I would consider would be building up the hinge area to re-tap. Take your time, out-think the bolt, hold your mouth right and it will come out!

Stuart.

Another method is to heat red hot & immediately cool with water. If you can reach the threads this will work. If you can't reach the threads its still worth a try.

Why would you want to mess with the hinges in the first place? I just left mine where they were on my 40 gmc and 46 chevy.
Stuart

I am in the same dilema right now! Those stupid siezed up screws! Luckily I just bought a brand new Snap-On tap and die set!

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm still pretty new at some of the "tricks of the trade" so all the help is really appreciated. The reason I've decided to remove the hinges, etc. is because of some of the underlying rust and to get as much of that old junk off of the sheetmetal as possible. I guess I've got some really high standards for what I want for this truck to be. Yeah, it's probably overkill, but hey, you only live once. Guess I'll have to post some pics pretty soon, huh?

Might this help?

Rusty Clutch Head Screws

Peg

I sent my info in last night for adding my two trucks to the gallery. I sent "before" pics only. I'll try to keep you posted with updates as it progresses. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll get 'em out, just want to make the job easier. But, hey, if this was easy, it probably wouldn't be worth doing.

I put a washer over the head of small screws and MIG-weld it to the thing carefully.., the heat gets it out and the washer provides something to BEND up on 2 ends and turn so you can get the rotted beast OUT..

If its a big bolt-head I get a BIGGER nut to weld to the thing from the inside..

It has yet to FAIL ME!

1931 Chevy Sedan 360+ pages

Regards
Rob

"Basics of Basics" Removing rusted nuts and bolts.
By Brian Martin


One of the first jobs I ever had was at a shop doing full on restorations on vintage Fords (we specialized in model 40s 1933-34). By boss taught me MANY things I use every day. One of them was the best trick for getting rusted bolts out that I have ever tried.
You need your torch with a small tip.
Take the torch and make a perfect flame like you are going to weld. Heat the bolt head up till it starts to turn red. (If the bolt is already broken off you will need to saw a grove to use a flat blade screwdriver or have enough to grab with locking pliers) Then quickly cool it with a squirt bottle of water. Repeat, heat it, then cool it. Do this a number of times and the bolt WILL turn right out. If you can, heat the nut around the bolt on right before you try turning it out, BUT DON'T HEAT THE BOLT. This will expand the nut from around the bolt. I have did this on Model A door hinges, if you are not familiar with them, it is a 5/16 bolt with a little flat blade screw driver head! A ridiculous design that rusted in to tight to remove around 1950! You can imagine how hard they are to remove in 2000. I have did these with total success, only needing a regular hand screw driver about 99% of the time.

The way I figure the heating and cooling expands and contracts the screw breaking it loose from the rusts grip.

I've got a friend who makes his living at welding & fabricating. I'll probably try him for the whole "heating/cooling" process. I do have one of those small propane torches but I'm wondering if this will get hot the bolt enough. That would save me from having to transport the cab to his house. What do you guys think?

It should work for the screws you're talking about. If not, get a tank of mapp gas for it... burns hotter.

The propane won't work as far as I am concerned, maybe, but there just isn't enough heat.

Brian