The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Heat Riser Valve Stuck AND Loose

Getting to the point my heat riser valve shaft is stuck, but the upside is the valve itself is hanging loose on the shaft.

How does the valve attach to the shaft? I've read that is brazed to the shaft but this is just flapping in the breeze.

Reading the forums I understand the issues with a stuck valve system, but if the valve is loose could I let that issue slide until later? What I don't want to do is wreck anything but I'd like to get the truck together and running before tearing it apart.

1951 3100

Just re-did mine on a 51 216. Had some slop in the shaft. The flap was brazed to the shaft. Took a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and removed it. Then the shaft slid right out. Had way more wear on the shaft than the bushings. Made a new shaft out of 5/16" rod. I'm not sure how the original shaft attached to the counterweight, whether it was threaded or pressed or brazed, but I drilled out the old shaft, threaded it, and my new shaft screws into it. Manifold has what appears to be brass (?) bushings for the shaft. And they were remarkably in very good shape. Left them alone. Put the new shaft back through and mig welded the flap back. You don't have to run a bead all the way across the flap, just a spot on each side. But make sure everything is in sync though, so it doesn't operate in a half-closed or half open position.
When I got it all back together, with the spring installed, I took my heat gun and tried it. Works just like they intended for it to.

Mike

$23.00 seems a lot for a piece of 5/16" cold roll. Flap still has to be attached. I also considered drilling and tapping the shaft, much like a choke flap in a carb, and screwing the flap to the shaft. Too much sugar for a dime I guess.

Mike