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| | | | Joined: Apr 2016 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2016 Posts: 14 | Hi all,
I have a small problem. I am trying to pull the right front wheel off my 2-ton but it is rusted tight to the hub. All the lug nuts are off, the plate that covers every other hole is off as well.
What I have tried:
1. Sprayed penetrating oil for about a week on the wheel center and backside of the wheel. (I can see spray coming out the outside of the wheel between the bolts and the extra lugnut holes in the wheel when I spray from the inside of the wheel.
2. I take a 5 foot breaker bar place it in one of the openings in the wheel and try to pry outward using the brake drum as the pivot point. I haven't really just pried super hard because I don't want to break anything else in the front end
3. I have a handheld propane torch and heated things lightly and then hit the inside of the tire with a big hammer. Again, since this is the front, I haven't brought the heat or just really went to beating the tire.
Any thoughts or shortcuts except "keep it up, it will eventually free up"?
My thoughts:
I don't have the manual for dismantling the front but I noticed a ring of bolts inside the wheel about 3 inches away, it looks like it would hold the brake drum on. All those nuts I broke loose with a wrench but re-tightened them. Can I remove those nuts and pull off the drum and wheel so I can get better access, or is there other keeper nuts within the hub center that holds the drum on that I would need to remove?
I have a manual coming sometime in the next two weeks, but I would like to get this wheel off because it has a blow-out in it and would like to toss on one of the rear-dual tires (they still hold air!). So I can at least push/pull the truck around.
Thanks for the help! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2015 Posts: 2,063 Big Bolt Forum Moderator | | Big Bolt Forum Moderator Joined: Dec 2015 Posts: 2,063 | I might be inclined to put the lug nuts on, loosen them up a full turn, put the weight back on it, and roll the truck back and forth a little bit. Turning wold put more force than going straight. That is probably not the preferred method but might be worth try. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 331 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 331 | Large hammer from behind. Takes a strong fella who's also a bit of a contortionist. Typically an older man who ends up stoved up in the bed for 3 days after the fact. Good luck.
1950 4100 - unrestored and driven weekly for almost no reason at all.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,868 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,868 | Make sure the truck is well-supported on jack stands (not just a bottle jack) and use a sledgehammer on the back side of the wheel. 2 or 3 good whacks should pop it loose. Leave a couple of lug nuts on the studs hand tight or the wheel might launch itself in an unpredictable direction as it comes loose.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 | Driving about 100 yards, or towing it with the lug nuts backed off a couple of rounds won't hurt anything. I usually use the biggest sledge hammer I own and hit the side of the tire from the outside. This usually jolts it loose. You can't really get a swing at the inside of the tire. Occasionally we have an aluminum wheel that really gets stuck on a steel hub. We use one of these if all else fails. http://www.kienedieseltools.com/p-2...GKdgVHkjZdgGiq2D_HHBgOXq4ibUhhoC5xvw_wcBIf driving with the lugs loose and hitting it with a sledge doesn't work, you can rig something like this with a bar, some chains and a bottle jack. | | |
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