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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
Question do you bench bleed the master then hookup the proportioning valve? Once that's done, which line goes to the front, which to the rear, which gets plugged up, and what to do with the sender in the middle? I'm adapting the ebay disc conversion kit from POW. Running the 4 speed on the floor with 235. What is the best way to hook up the brake rod to the stock brake pedal?

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 206
T
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
T Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 206
not sure what kit you have but bench bleeding is to bleed the master at a level positions and I usually do it with the prop valve on. The sender is a brake warning light, remove it and insert the centering tool prior to bleeding and leave it in until all wheels are bled.


Dave Chapman
The Hollister Road Company
713-937-0387
info@hollisterroad.com
www.hollisterroad.com
www.thoroco.com
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
Centering tool? I tried to bench bleed but the fluid just all runs out, leaks out the cheap plastic hose fittings and makes a mess. Keeps leaking until fuid is gone. I am going to go ahead and plumb the lines with the proportioning valve in place until someone can tell me if I need a new master cylinder. I can see a remote reservoir will be a must.
Had to remove the transmission cross member to clear the Assembly. Not sure its necessary fut I feel better with the reinforcement. I have an open drive line 4 speed but the T5 is looking appealing

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
I got the master cylinder bench bled and installed. The lines are plumbed and all that remains is bleed the lines. I got that tool for the proportioning valve in place. I will use the stock brake light switch, but what is the sending unit for and where would I find a circuit diagram for it?

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,886
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,886
The sender or switch, activates the dash brake warning light when one half of the braking system fails. The tool " you have in place" is holding the other half of the warning light switch. It is a simple piece of steel with a "V" in the center, there is equal line pressure on both sides of it when braking. If the front or rear brakes fail, the pressure of the working half will force the small piece to one side, as it does it hits the sender completing the circuit turning on the warning light.

You will not need it since your truck doesn't have a warning light. You could rig one easy enough, but usually you know right away when half the brakes quit working!


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