Just bought a Porter-Cable 3-1/2" framing nailer, this thing is an animal. It rarely jams and it sets nails without breaking the wood. $150 at HD and well worth the money.
Just bought a Porter-Cable 3-1/2" framing nailer, this thing is an animal. It rarely jams and it sets nails without breaking the wood. $150 at HD and well worth the money.
Well, got me a third hand type of deal. It is a copper, hole welding backer, but it has a magnet and a set screw to give a little tension when needed. Set it, back your hole and it leaves both hands free to operate the welder.
Bore Scope***** very neat and inexpensive. Plug it in to your laptop open the program and your off to the races. More will be coming on my need for this in a few weeks in the "What have you done" forum. The instructions were very clear the tool was not for use internally in the human body. Now who would try that?
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Well, got me a third hand type of deal. It is a copper, hole welding backer, but it has a magnet and a set screw to give a little tension when needed. Set it, back your hole and it leaves both hands free to operate the welder.
Those are very handy. One of the first items I got after the MIG welder.
Sunday, the wife and I were out on a drive and stopped at a yard sale. Picked up a Craftsman Industrial Electric Impact wrench and a bunch of impact sockets for $40. The sockets were all inch sizes except one metric, so they'll get use on the Stovebolt.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Just bought an old impact driver and very small puller from one of the antique shops in town yesterday. Sometimes the good old heavy duty, American made tools are found for decently cheap prices at these places. Also see a lot of hood ornaments, hub caps, and other pieces that others wouldn't know what they're looking at.
'If you want to test out a truck, buy your own dang truck!' -CSM Fulk, Iraq
GMCinDisquise, if you happen to be in that shop again check out their hood ornaments to see if they have one of the Eagle Hood ornaments. See this picture for reference. You can buy after market. but I have been looking for an original.
I had a neighbor move then suddenly pass away and the son in law came out to clean out his work shop. The son in law gave me a belt sander 4" wide, two nail guns and a really nice Reed vice with 5" jaws. This vice is a very heavy old vice that goes for $325.00 plus used on the net made in the USA. I guess I made a great score for paying nothing. 62blue Don
Sounds like a nice vice. I also have a large Reed vice and they are very well made and heavy for the size. Good job being at the right place at the right time! Sorry about your neighbor.
Good point raised on antique stores and truck/car parts. These items are now sold as decorative items not parts, often the people that are selling them just see them as decorating kitsch.
Does it count if you made a tool? If so, instead of paying $80 - $200 for a brake line straightener, I used some angle iron, nuts, bolts, and some closet door rollers to make something that looked like this one. Cost me all of $30 and about 45 mins of work.
Does it count if you made a tool? If so, instead of paying $80 - $200 for a brake line straightener, I used some angle iron, nuts, bolts, and some closet door rollers to make something that looked like this one. Cost me all of $30 and about 45 mins of work.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I have a couple of those metric crescent wrenches. But mine are metric/SAE combination.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Believe it or not, I had a left handed adjustable wrench. You had to spin the screw opposite than most to open or close it. I loved loaning it out and watch the guys stop and look at it funny. Most of them would not say a thing. One guy started cursing me and and winged it across the shop. I just smiled and said "I gocha" I always carried two the same size, one for me and one to loan out.
Don
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery '46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6 Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
Are you going into the watch repair business, Robert? Nice!
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Well, the last tools I acquired are two tire irons for changing lock ring rims. They were under the seat of the 51 GMC I just brought home. One is a Kentool, the other doesn't have a brand but it has a maker's mark I need to look up.
Latest tool for the shop, picked up a good used Snap-on BF-615 hammer. It has the reverse curve hammer faces and has been discontinued by Snap-on for some odd reason...
Just picked up a 1/2" drive, 5/8" swivel impact socket with a really short extension from Snapon. Seems to be one of the better ways to get a top starter bolt on a DT466 in an all wheel drive International Workstar(?)
I also had to get a 1/2" drive, 10mm allen socket from Matco to work the head bolts on a Nissan L24. Snapped that because I drove it with an impact ( bad on me), so I picked up a 3/8" drive 10mm from Snapon so I could keep working.
BTW, that L24 head had some stuck and broken exhaust studs in it. Did the usual "grab it with a vise grip and whack it with a hammer" deal. No budge. Figured I'd end up breaking them, drilling them and re-tapping the holes. On a whim, bought a metric stud remover kit from Snapon. The stud came out effortlessly!! Then the next one did! So the next day, bought a standard kit from the Matco guy. Tried it on the Ferd flathead I have sitting in cue. Same deal!! Why haven't I got these stud remover kits sooner in my life !!
Oh yeah, also picked up a Bluepoint ratcheting wrench set in metric to match the standard set I already had.
Just picked up a BC AMES benchtop precision lathe and assorted collets end mills, chucks and face plates.
Could only find one on the web that even comes close. It's on ebay. This was a personal lathe for a NASA engineerwho moved to Or. from Va. when he retired. He recently passed and family needed it out of garage for new house owners. I think my recent acquisition phase is coming to an end. This makes the HF 6" cross feed vice for the drill press and their black tool chest slip from favorite new tool status to 'yeah they really help but check THIS out' realm. Now if I can figure out a way to mount it on the back side of my SB 9" (look alike) and run them both off the same (VOS?) motor I'll have a tool room and a precision lathe hotrod won't I? BC Ames lathe
Built myself a slapping spoon for body work. Dug out that old half of a leaf spring from my F250 that I have kept for 5 years or so. (Doesn't every one keep crap like that? ) The handle has a little "texture" to it where I got off track a bit with the cutting torch. It's there to keep it from slipping out of my hand. Yeah, that's the ticket.
Also spent a bit of time shimming the bearing in my $10 HF angle grinder. When the fix wears out, it's going in the trash. I think I'll replace that with the $30 HF one with the paddle switch like I already have. That one's doing OK.
Last edited by klhansen; 01/30/20174:16 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Got the cheapest of the cheap HF welders on sale for $87. Have built up to an acceptable level of success with a series of tack welds in repairing bottom corner of a rear fender into which the running board had been jammed.
If nothing else it's a good starter to figure out what I'll need to repair my rotten floorboards. Would like to think I could at least tack them in if need be. But then if the HF was all I had I probably wouldn't cut the rotten floors out in the first place.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
Got the cheapest of the cheap HF welders on sale for $87. Have built up to an acceptable level of success with a series of tack welds in repairing bottom corner of a rear fender into which the running board had been jammed.
If nothing else it's a good starter to figure out what I'll need to repair my rotten floorboards. Would like to think I could at least tack them in if need be. But then if the HF was all I had I probably wouldn't cut the rotten floors out in the first place.
Hint: it will work better with name brand wire from the home depot or the like.
