The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Silicon remover / wash

I think the PO of my truck used silicon cleaner or wax on my 51. It needs restored and repainted, but I have sanded some areas for touch up and spraypainted a color match. I get the "fish eye" effect. I plan on sanding to the primer, but in places the silicon has permeated through it. What kind of cleaner will clean this up? This will be a daily driver - not show, but I still want a good looking job when it is all done. BW

There are products specifically for this at your local paint store. You don't want to skimp on this.

Wear nitrile gloves when you are sanding and cleaning, too. Your hands and fingerprints contain quite a bit of natural silicon.

Never heard of a human body containing natural silicon. We do generate a lot of oils that screw with things like paint, though.

I just had some work done on my truck and I use alot of silicone. The fella at the body shop said to wash the truck including tires and steering wheel with ivory dish soap this removes all wax and silicone. infact he said any type of dish soap will work but he mentioned ivory. The job came out great and he said he had no troubles...

I know a woman whose body contains silicone!

Oh - it's not natural though!

All serious aside, R-M Paint (if they're still around) used to offer a silicone-wax remover in gallon cans to be used on a vehicle before you began the sanding process. It was a product you could soak a clean rag with and wipe it on, then wipe it off. I'm sure other paint brands offer such a product.

Joe

before any body work is ever done on any part of a car or truck. wash the whole thing down with dish soap or plain clothes deturgent. make sure the soap doesnt have lanilin in it.(keeps hands soft)

when you use wax remover/ degreases (for paint) always wear nitrile gloves or better, and the paper towls you use. make sure to either use torque or blue shops towls. the paper towls need to be woven NOT glued.

Always clean with a "final clean" less harsh wax/grease remover.before paintting before and after masking right beforepaintting.

check air supply from compressor and air supply to were you are paintting.

And if worse come to worse add a small amount or fish eye additive.

It may be that the silicon did not permeate your paint but that you just moved it around by sanding, etc. without first getting the surface clean. You might try a product call "Poly-cracker.

I think you'll find that if you have used Armorall or any similar product in proximity to the area you are trying to paint, you will experience fish eye. Wet coats are especially troublesome. You might solve the problem by putting down multiple, light, dry coats.

It took me 3 weeks of putting down light coats every day to solve fish eye on the black painted areas of the dash in my wife's '67 Impala SS--the result of the PO using Armorall on the interior for 15+ years. I thought I'd never get it right!