The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Putting a spin on filter on a stovebolt

Stumbled on this article which has a lot of good info. However if you are interested look at Deve's version which is a little more expensive but looks way way better, particularly with the Grigg adaptor plate.

http://www.rodauthority.com/tech-st...ject-geronimo-put-a-new-spin-on-it-cheap

That article neglects to mention that a 1/16" diameter restrictor needs to be added somewhere in the oil circuit to prevent starving the engine for lubrication. The filter they recommend is designed for full flow filtering, not bypass filtration like the vast majority of the stovebolt engines use.

I use a drilled-out Holley carburetor jet threaded into one of the adapter fittings to prevent flowing too much oil back into the oil pan instead of routing it to the bearings and cylinder head.
Jerry

They put it on a 261, so most likely it is full flow and therefore no restriction is desired.

I don't think it is a very good article, we have better more thorough info here on the forum.

I wonder where they got that idea? LOL! The problem is the story isn't complete and the reason why my setup costs so much. The stainless braided hoses are not mentioned, the stainless adapters with the stainless restrictor not to mention the stainless pipe and tee that ensures you do not end up with ruined hoses from touching the exhaust. When you start adding up the AN fittings along with all of the above, the cost is higher than I would like. I could go cheaper if I wasn't insistent on stainless everything. That is why the entire How-To article that lets you do it yourself is also included on my site. Thanks for bringing that up Allen! LOL!

It was a 1960 261 - which can accommodate a full flow oil filtration system

They did mention hoses: "We managed to use braided steel hose from another project that was laying around, and we repurposed them for this project. You need to be aware that raw braided stainless hose stock and fittings will need to be sourced to complete this project. Truly a cheap conversion that adds a lot of modern efficiency to an old warrior." (they also showed/used "available" adapters)

"stainless restrictor"?

They did not mention the oil pressure sender location.

I read the article Tim. Look at what matters which is the parts list. To tout this easy and cheap way to install a spin-on filter without bothering to add everything you need in there is sort of deceiving.

For example putting it in the location they chose (me too) you can't just put the rear hose on and connect it outright without a big concern of the hot exhaust melting your hose. To get around that, a 4 inch pipe with a tee (so you can also put your sensors on the tee) give you clearance so the 300 degree rated hose does not touch the 1200 degree exhaust. I wouldn't sell them that way for sure.

Certainly more than one way to skin a buffalo.

The article is not really through enough to copy or follow and not make a mistake. Some of the reasoning and details seem suspect to me.
It does however give an idea that you can swap/modify oil filtering methods.

Yeah, Grigg you showed us that with your adapter plate. That accommodates Fenton dual exhaust, then the one above works for anything with a triangle mount, which isn't every engine out there, so that's why I made a clamp-on adapter. The only engine we haven't figured out yet is the one with the upside down L triangle.

Bypass owners just need to remember to put a 1/16th restrictor in the adapter somewhere. I tap a stainless bushing 1/2" NPT with 1/8" NPT inside with 1/2" fine thread (only near the bottom) then drill a 1/16th hole through a bolt (the long way), tighten it in good with loctite red, then cut the bolt off. A little tapering around the hole and you are in business. Screw that directly into the Transdapt 1028 in the Outlet and done.

You can purchase restricted fittings of a size that would be useful for a bypass filter.
Try Weatheread part numbers 431x4 and 1512 on pages 39 and 105
Eaton Weatheread Brass catalog PDF

McMaster has lots more choices; search for "orfice" if this link is not fruitful.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#orifices/=12v4zyq

I see how that would work, but it's not hard to tap the inside of the stainless adapter and drill a small hole. I DO wish I could find fine thread 1/2" bolts in BRASS. Drilling that hole is kind of precarious with that small of drill bit. Brass would make it easier.

One advantage to a ready made one piece fitting is no chance that a restriction plug can work loose inside of there isn't one.
Another advantage is for someone following instructions it may be difficult for them to drill and tap things, and so much easier to order the ready made part.

Just providing other options.

Deve, been diverted from my engine work for other projects, but just visited your site again and see you've made quite a few changes on your spin on filter conversion...that is additions since my last visit. Appears you now have most, if not all, the options covered. Very nice job as always. However, I now need to figure out which one applies to my two 235's. I'm trying to follow the tech aspects, but need some background. Do you guys know where the best source is for details on oil flow/circulation/passages for full flow and bypass setups as they came out of the factory? Maybe shop manuals?

The best solution is one that mounts the filter on the engine. All of the forces are the same then. Not that I have had any complaints with the clamp-on (upper frame rail) type, but as I recall, one of your 235s has that upside down L shaped boss. Are those holes threaded? What bolt size? I will send you a free adapter plate if you can get me a cardboard template. None of my engines have that.

Will do Deve, much appreciated but free is not acceptable. We will work it out. I do plan to go back with dual Fentons, so we'll work on that configuration.

So is the restrictor needed because the original bypass filter was designed to also restrict flow on that outlet/path from the oil pump so the other pump outlets would have sufficient pressure/volume to lube rest of the engine?

Yes exactly.
It is common for engine manufacturers to specify what the maximum allowable orifice size is for a bypass filter so as to not starve the rest of the engine.
I have not found this specification for the Stovebolt. It'd be wise to check the restriction size in the original filter housing. This may be where the inlet hose connects to the housing, likely just a small hole drilled and not a separately removable restricted fitting.

My Detroit 53 series manual for example recommends no more than 0.062" orifice for feeding a bypass filter.

The original cannisters have a 1/16th restrictor. I use that with my spin-on bypass setup and it works great.

Been putting them on farm trucks for years. The two empty bolt holes are for a heat shield. No expensive stuff needed except of course brass fittings are out of sight. Hoses last at least 10 years.
http://s32.photobucket.com/user/coilover/media/Billys%20donated%2055%20016.jpg.html