The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts GM 350 In A 1946 2 Ton?

Yesterday my son's engine started making noise. Did not want to idle. Stuck on the side of the road I had to go tow bar him to his catering job and back home.

I heard metallic sound for a second then the engine stalled/stopped running. Not seized. No time to check out the engine for he was booked to cater a party for a sailing club.

Now I have yet to go outside this morning to check out the truck. Though talking with my son last night he felt that if his engine needed a rebuild he may just as well as go for a 350 Target Motor.

I told him most likely the original trans will not bolt up to the 350 so he would have to go with a new transmission as well.

So what's involved?

2 bolt main good
4 bolt over kill
base target motor 195 hp seems more than adequate
Points or early GM electronic ign/pre computer
2 barrel carb

Trans options

Auto: which 4 spd OD any other one's?
Manual: ?

All the steps involved in getting the job done?

SM-420 or 465, or for OD, an NV-4500 for trans.

I'd dropping in a fresh 235 or 261 and be done...you could have him back on the road in one weekend. The 6-cylinder engines are good engines and have given countless millions of miles of service for decades.

Swapping in a V8 will have gas and clutch linkage issues to work out as well as radiator and exhaust fitment issues...this all takes time to research and figure out.

My .02 cents,

Mike B

I got the truck home last night. After posting this morning my other son and I used my chain come along and a lot of chains and pulled the truck into the driveway up to the garage. That took a long time to do.

After putting all the gear away I took the valve cover off and found the No. 6 intake valve pushrod bent, spring no longer had the the valve keepers on and beat up bad, the top of the valve rotator/oil shield was also off of the valve spring and beat up a bit.

Tomorrow I going to take off the head. Most likely will take off the carburetor, then manifolds, to make the head lighter.

I had a similar experience with my 2-ton a couple of years ago. It turned out the pool pump had failed and took out a couple of rod bearings along with the crank journals. I finally located a '53 235 that would bolt right in. I had to have a custom exhaust pipe made because the manifold commotion is at a different angle, but the pip was shot anyway. My recommendation if you change the engine is to pull the sheet metal off the front of the truck (it comes off in one piece with just a few bolts) and you can get right at what you need to and even do a test start with a garden hose supplying cooling before the body parts go back on.
Any 6 "54 or older will bolt right in, the newer ones need a water pump adapter to work with the stock radiator position. As mentioned above, a V-8 will take a great deal of engineering to work; there's a reason Chevy reengineered their whole trucks when the V-8 came out.

Thanks ED I will be keeping my eye open for a 54 or older 235/261.

What was the 1st year for full pressure oil and 1st year for bearing inserts?
Jeffrey

Typo error - 1954 or newer 261?
The 261 was introduced in 1954.

All 235s from 1954 onwards were high pressure engines, with insert rod bearings.

The 1953 235 with Powerglide transmission (car only) was the only (and the first) 235 with insert rod bearings (and higher pressure engine lubrication).

Thank you.

What years do not need the water pump adapter?
Jeffrey

"54, I believe.

The water pump adapters are not a big deal - they're readily available on ebay all day long for cheap.

My son is leaning to having the original engine rebuilt. Gentleman here will put in all new valve seats, valve guides, so it can run unleaded, convert from Babbitt to Inserts, new pistons, timing chain and gears, camshaft bushings. In short a thorough job.
Jeffrey

In the long run, not a bad idea. I would do the same if I could swing it. You can often pick up a running engine for $4-500 to put in and get the truck back on the road until the original is ready to go back in. I know how badly downtime can hurt a business.

I believe 1954 is full oil and has the water pump in the right place.

Bring this thread up to date.

Tuesday I brought home a 1954 235 that was originally in a 3800. We are getting that engine rebuilt. 19 more HP, less work because the engine does not need to be worked to replace the Babbitt bearings with inserts.

Hope that there are no major issues hidden preventing the 54 engine from being rebuilt.

I certainly hope you inadvertently forgot the word "not" in the above sentence...unless you are a glutton for punishment.

The 1954 year engine is the best one for Deco era trucks. I hope it is rebuildable. The old style valve cover can be bolted to the newer engine making it look almost perfectly original.