BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| |
7 members (niobrarafun, Otto Skorzeny, kades51, Guitplayer, MNSmith, NorCal52Suburban, Bill Hanlon),
562
guests, and
1
robot. | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,778 Posts1,039,291 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2015 Posts: 56 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2015 Posts: 56 | After reading through past forums on this topic I have concluded the following:
1. it may help with vapor lock during summertime restarting 2. it should help with starting after truck sits for an extended time 3. there needs to be an oil pressure switch to prevent operation if ignition is on and engine isn't running 4. mechanical pump needs to be removed and a blocking plate installation is necessary 5. I assume it should be wired in with the ignition switch
Any corrections, suggestions, or additional information regarding the installation of an electric fuel pump on my 50 Chevy pickup will be greatly appreciated. | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | 3-5 sound about right, but if you're having problems w/ 1 or 2 you should cure them instead of trying to "bypass" them - there's nothing wrong with the mechanical pump as designed
Bill | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 | If the oil switch locks the power off to the electric fuel pump when the engine is not running, how will you prime the carb after a long period of sitting (long Winter nap)? Will there be a bypass switch? My Fire Engine fuel pump is wired to the ignition switch only. I turn the key "on/run" and let the electric pump fill the carb, then pull the choke, hit the pedal one time, turn the key to "start" and the truck is running in 2-3 seconds. I don't have an oil safety switch, I figure if I have an issue the first thing I'll do is turn the key off which stops the truck and turns the fuel pump off. Been this way since it was built in 1957. Mike B  | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Be careful to not exceed the pressure which the float needle can withstand. I would suggest using an adjustable pressure regulator which has a port which returns excess fuel back to the tank via a separate return line. This will keep fuel constantly flowing through the fuel lines, keeping the fuel cooler. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Ditto what Carl posted, but I would buy a low pressure/volume 6v or 12v electric fuel pump. | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 | Take a look at the bottom of the page in the link. Fuel control | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 | And stay away from the pumps like these. Bad type of pump Stick with a good inline pump that can return to tank if possible. Like noted above watch your pressure output. | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 | Most any of the little, low pressure pumps will push fuel to the mechanical pump, no real need to remove it. Also, most of little pumps you can draw fuel right through them so the mechanical pump can still function the way it was intended to. Just use the little pump to get the carb full and help with starting via a push button switch.
The idea behind the oil pressure switch is purely safety. If you in a wreck and get knocked out, the pump will only run as long as the engine has oil pressure. The original three wire Chevy Vega switches turned pump on above 3 psi oil pressure, the other lead turned pump on when started was engaged, third feed was power source. | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,504 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,504 | I think Cletis did a hidden electric pump with a "dummy" mechanical pump.
Looked pretty cool.
1951 3100
| | | | Joined: Sep 2015 Posts: 56 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2015 Posts: 56 | I like your responses. I realized later that an oil pressure switch would prevent my carb from being primed after sitting for a while and not help with vapor lock. I also like leaving the mechanical pump active and supplementing it with the electric pump. I have a recommended low pressure pump for a 6 cylinder engine. I will just power it off the ignition switch. Thanks to all. | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | If you retain your original mechanical pump, make sure it is in good condition. If it leaks into the crank case (not uncommon with a bad one), your new electric pump may fill your crankcase with gas. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 385 | If you retain your original mechanical pump, make sure it is in good condition. If it leaks into the crank case (not uncommon with a bad one), your new electric pump may fill your crankcase with gas. Carl Also known as your reserve tank for the extra long trips. | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | No room for a sense of humor in here Bub! 
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 250 Haunting the SBP since 2001 | Haunting the SBP since 2001 Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 250 | there's nothing wrong with the mechanical pump as designed
Bill Except for the fact that most of them have a rubber diaphram that cannot hold up to today's modern alcohol/methanol/oxygenated fuels which rapidly dry the pump diaphram out ,resulting in fuel leaks that dump raw fuel into the engine crankcase which dilutes the engine oil and results in fried main bearings and burnt cam shafts. I am all done with those crappy original style mechanical fuel pumps. Here is the way to update to a high quality electric fuel pump. http://www.jbhardin-gallery.com/tru...5847&hilit=electric+fuel+pump#p35847. | | |
| |