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Fixing the old truck

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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 56
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 56
After reading through past forums on this topic I have concluded the following:

1. it may help with vapor lock during summertime restarting
2. it should help with starting after truck sits for an extended time
3. there needs to be an oil pressure switch to prevent operation if ignition is on and engine isn't running
4. mechanical pump needs to be removed and a blocking plate installation is necessary
5. I assume it should be wired in with the ignition switch

Any corrections, suggestions, or additional information regarding the installation of an electric fuel pump on my 50 Chevy pickup will be greatly appreciated.

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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3-5 sound about right, but if you're having problems w/ 1 or 2 you should cure them instead of trying to "bypass" them - there's nothing wrong with the mechanical pump as designed

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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If the oil switch locks the power off to the electric fuel pump when the engine is not running, how will you prime the carb after a long period of sitting (long Winter nap)? Will there be a bypass switch?

My Fire Engine fuel pump is wired to the ignition switch only. I turn the key "on/run" and let the electric pump fill the carb, then pull the choke, hit the pedal one time, turn the key to "start" and the truck is running in 2-3 seconds. I don't have an oil safety switch, I figure if I have an issue the first thing I'll do is turn the key off which stops the truck and turns the fuel pump off. Been this way since it was built in 1957.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
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5
Renaissance Man
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Be careful to not exceed the pressure which the float needle can withstand. I would suggest using an adjustable pressure regulator which has a port which returns excess fuel back to the tank via a separate return line. This will keep fuel constantly flowing through the fuel lines, keeping the fuel cooler.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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Ditto what Carl posted, but I would buy a low pressure/volume 6v or 12v electric fuel pump.

Joined: Sep 2014
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W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Take a look at the bottom of the page in the link.

Fuel control

Joined: Sep 2014
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W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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And stay away from the pumps like these.

Bad type of pump

Stick with a good inline pump that can return to tank if possible. Like noted above watch your pressure output.

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,886
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Most any of the little, low pressure pumps will push fuel to the mechanical pump, no real need to remove it. Also, most of little pumps you can draw fuel right through them so the mechanical pump can still function the way it was intended to. Just use the little pump to get the carb full and help with starting via a push button switch.

The idea behind the oil pressure switch is purely safety. If you in a wreck and get knocked out, the pump will only run as long as the engine has oil pressure. The original three wire Chevy Vega switches turned pump on above 3 psi oil pressure, the other lead turned pump on when started was engaged, third feed was power source.

Joined: Jan 2014
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I think Cletis did a hidden electric pump with a "dummy" mechanical pump.

Looked pretty cool.


1951 3100
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I like your responses. I realized later that an oil pressure switch would prevent my carb from being primed after sitting for a while and not help with vapor lock. I also like leaving the mechanical pump active and supplementing it with the electric pump. I have a recommended low pressure pump for a 6 cylinder engine. I will just power it off the ignition switch. Thanks to all.

Joined: Mar 2010
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5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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If you retain your original mechanical pump, make sure it is in good condition. If it leaks into the crank case (not uncommon with a bad one), your new electric pump may fill your crankcase with gas.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 385
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Posts: 385
Originally Posted by 52Carl
If you retain your original mechanical pump, make sure it is in good condition. If it leaks into the crank case (not uncommon with a bad one), your new electric pump may fill your crankcase with gas.
Carl

Also known as your reserve tank for the extra long trips.

Joined: Mar 2010
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Renaissance Man
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No room for a sense of humor in here Bub! smile


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 250
Haunting the SBP since 2001
Haunting the SBP since 2001
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 250
Originally Posted by red58
there's nothing wrong with the mechanical pump as designed

Bill

Except for the fact that most of them have a rubber diaphram that cannot hold up to today's modern alcohol/methanol/oxygenated fuels which rapidly dry the pump diaphram out ,resulting in fuel leaks that dump raw fuel into the engine crankcase which dilutes the engine oil and results in fried main bearings and burnt cam shafts.

I am all done with those crappy original style mechanical fuel pumps.

Here is the way to update to a high quality electric fuel pump.

http://www.jbhardin-gallery.com/tru...5847&hilit=electric+fuel+pump#p35847



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