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Gentlemen,

I know this topic has been addressed many times, but product quality changes...

Looking for a rubber oil line kit for a Delco S-6 filter mounted on a 1958 235. I believe the two lines are 19 and 21 inches long.

Who sells the best lines at the best price today?

Paul

The next remote oil filter that I will do, will be with nickle/copper brake lines. Millions of tractors used steel lines without any troubles since there were no rubber lines to fail. They work because there is no movement between the engine block and the engine-mounted filter.
GM did not install oil filters on their engines. It was a dealer added option. I believe that soft lines were used because it was easier for the dealer to hook it up in a hurry.
I plan on adding rubber tubing which will fit on the outside of the nickle/copper line to appear as original. The nickle/copper brake line in very easy to hand bend into the proper shape.
Carl

The best set I have found is from classic parts. It includes swivel fittings & 90 degree L,s.

soft lines were used because it was easier for the dealer to hook it up

and not having to carry specific lines for each install.

Use brake line.

Any shop that makes hydraulic lines can make them for you.

Carl, sometimes you are a genius. I recall the discussion a couple years ago about bending hard lines and it sounded like a fun project. The ID of a 1/4 brake line is the same as the hose and it can be routed much more safely away from the exhaust manifold. It can most likely be constructed from spare residue floating around the shop as well.

George, thanks, those did look like the best deal to me as well and I think that is what I used on my 41.

Whenever I use hard lines for an application like a remote filter, I put a 360 degree loop somewhere in the line to act as a vibration isolator. That prevents lines from cracking or splitting flares with pressure surges. It was standard procedure for pressure gauge lines on most of the industrial equipment I worked on as a mechanical maintenance technician at places like E.& J. Gallo winery and Armstrong Tire Co.
Jerry

You know, Jerry, I have to explain that every time when I replace brake lines from a master cylinder. I always get the same question, "Why are you putting those loops in there? It's easier to just run the straight to the frame.". I've even had to redo lines from some doofus at another shop putting them in wrong and they cracked.

I suppose there would be some flexing of the filter as the clamps attached to the intake manifold are not the most secure mounting arrangement.

One reason for my question on rubber lines is to inquire about the quality of the hose. I have seen material ranging from grease gun hose to non-fuel injected fuel line used. Are either of these types of hose rated for hot oil @ 50 PSI?

Back in the early 60's I had a 60 Chevy with a 235. One of the oil filter hoses developed a leak. I made a line from copper tubing. Flared the ends and gave it a 360 degree vibration loop. Never had a problem with it.

Rick

Just finished a GMC 228 oil line redo.
The stock 3 way fitting out of the front block in my case made for an interesting project. This three way goes to the head oiling , oil filter and pressure gauge.

The thread mix, fitting mix and transions in sizing in the stock pipe and then the vibration isolation rubber lines makes it challenging.

There are inverted flare fittings and transition fitting to rubber lines in the stock setup that are no longer available. I used a cobination of brake line, a rubber line and flare to get the job done. The filter threaded fitting themselves were different on the GMC from the Chev.

Found a same transition problem on the oil pressure gauge line at the fire wall. Stock is 3/16" pipe to an inverted flare to rubber line to 1/8" line to the gauge. Replaced with vibration loop with compression fittings and a coupling with 3/16" to 1/8".

[URL=http://s398.photobucket.com/user/showkey_bucket/media/image_zps00cd12uv.jpeg.html]pic of filter oil line[/url]

Can copper tubing be used instead of brake line?

Yes - it might be preferred.
Copper-Nickel tubing would also work nicely.

Soft copper has a nasty habit of cracking at flare fittings if it's not double-flared. The cupro-nickel tubing would be a better choice, since it's suitable for medium-pressure applications like hydraulic brakes.
Jerry

While looking through some images, I noticed one of a topic I began a while back... Here is my solution of a hard line set up for the oil filter.

[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/3285/oil_lines.JPG[/img]

Thought a follow-up would be nice as most ask questions but rarely post solutions.

Nice work. Jeffrey

An older thread, but Folks I know have used the "grease gun lines", having ends made up at NAPA.

For me, I use hard lines, with a loop.

Regarding dealer installed oil filters vs factory installed oil filters, BOTH were done.
If the oil filter was factory installed, under RPO 237, the canister was black, the top had white lettering on it.
The dealer installed oil filters had a blue canister with an orange top.
BY 1962, the 6 Cyl had a factory installed filter, as standard equipment. It was black.

Paul:

I suppose you could call that "military grade" or "mil-spec" for marketing purposes. Nice work!

Did you flare your own or buy the kind that have the fittings already installed? I'm curious what size the fittings are. My rubber lines from Jim Carter are almost a bit too short.

I might do what you did but I lack the flaring tool and might just but the pre-fab line.

Very common to loop hardline. Only need on loop, although the multi loop thing looks kinda cool.

From my 1940s Cevy manual:

http://i.imgur.com/ZWHg5he.jpg