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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,028 Posts1,055,414 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 | On my 58 half ton with a 235 the shop manual calls for a special lock washer for the rear engine mounts that bolt thru the bell housing. One of mine on the passenger side was missing. I thought the bell housing bolt holes were threaded so I thought I threaded the bolts thru. Some how one fell out. When I removed the engine and installed the new engine I do not remember there being locks and nuts on the top side of the bell housing legs. Anyone know what lock washers they are referring to in the shop manual. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | They originally come with a lock plate. The tabs fold over the hex on the bolts. I always discard these & use split ring lock washers. There is a tube spacer that goes in the middle of the mounts. If this is missing the mounts won't work right. If the threads in the bell housing are wiped out you put a nut on the top side. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 | That is what I did. Used a split lock washer, but since I fastened it down with the nuts and lock I can really feel the vibration of the engine now. Some installed a slightly radical camshaft when they rebuilt the engine. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,212 | You shouldn't feel any metal to metal type vibration if the motor mounts are installed correctly. The following list is to confirm you have all of the right parts for the rear mounts. There is an Upper Rubber Mount (U-shaped), a Lower Rubber Mount (small rectangle that fits up inside the cross member), a Spacer, a Lock plate and the Bolt. The lock plate gives the bolt a larger surface area to press against and locks the bolt from turning. If you just use a split ring lock washer there's not much keeping the bolt from being pulling up through the Lower Rubber Mount when the truck frame twists or there is heavy engine torque. Mike B  | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 | I have everything you described except the lock plate. Can you post a picture? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | The pre bent portion fits over the lower rubber and the portion near the bolt head has tabs that are bent up after torqueing. This prevents the bolt from rotating. These can be found on trucks up into the late 60's +?. Junk yard or DIY.
The bell housing ears are threaded. Someone may also put a nut on to "lock" it that way.
Last edited by bartamos; 05/21/2016 6:20 PM. Reason: Moved links to PM
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 212 | Thanks for the photos. I have everything except the strap with the tangs to lock the bolt head. I will have to make those. There are no junk yards left around here with trucks that old. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 |
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Apr 2015 Posts: 336 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2015 Posts: 336 |
1959 3100 Apache Fleetside
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