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#1165486 05/15/2016 9:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2015
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Going to make a new set of brake lines for the 46 2 ton.

I have my dad's flaring set and I have made steel lines before. My question is there any problems when using stainless steel tubing stock to make SS brake lines?

Thank you, Jeffrey

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
It's just plain no fun to work with, and requires a very good flare tool. I've done it and it's not worth the effort.

Much better all around is copper nickel brake line, real easy to flare, bend, and extremely corrosion resistant.
It is now available at most auto parts stores and good prices can be found on eBay for example search for part number CNC425.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Never heard of copper nickel brake lines. I'll google that.
Thanks, Jeffrey

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Grigg,

Is there any negative regarding the Cu-Ni tubing (except that it does not look like steel)?

I have small rolls of at least three different outer diameters - it is a nice material to work with.

Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 148
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 148
Interesting. I need to replace all the old steel brake lines on my project, and was considering stainless as well. I had never heard of copper nickel brake lines before. I guess if it's good enough for Audi, Porsche, Aston Martin and Volvo, it's good enough for my project too.

Thanks for the tip Grigg! wink


-David

1953 2-Ton GMC

I'm a machinist... because engineers need heroes too.
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C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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It has been used in Europe for many years and it stands up to their salted roads. I wouldn't consider stainless any more. I learned in school that we were supposed to be the new world and Europe the old world, but it seems like Europe is always a couple of decades ahead of us in technology.

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Tim,
No negative that I can think of. I've been using it for fuel, oil, air, brake fluid, and pretty much anywhere I would have previously used a plain steel line or stainless steel line.
The color is a little off what you would expect to see on our trucks, I choose not to worry about that at all. Stainless would look wrong too...

It sure is easy to work with.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 914
3
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 914
Thanks to Grigg. I went online to research. I found out that they even have a plastic/poly coated steel line but did not like that stuff.

Then I went to my parts man and ordered a 50' x 1/4" roll of nickel copper line. I'll be making new lines Wednesday. Jeffrey

Last edited by 32vld; 05/17/2016 12:52 AM.
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A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Posts: 120
Make certain you are getting the correct copper nickel. I asked a shop to get me in copper nickel. They got me pure copper and it was only after I made all the lines and fitted and bled them that I noticed a CU mark on the line, looked up the type and they were pure copper, which will eventually work harden and crack, rarely, and after a very long time. So I had to start again.


'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
Joined: Nov 2011
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P
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by tclederman
Is there any negative regarding the Cu-Ni tubing (except that it does not look like steel)?

The Cu-Ni certainly flares and bends easily. The only negative aspect I can think of is the materials flexibility. In heavy brush, the lower tubing applications (as along the rear axle) may catch and tear more easily than the more rigid steel or stainless steel. I just installed some Cu-Ni on an old beater firewood hauler...I will monitor for product durability.

Last edited by Paul_WNC; 05/18/2016 11:13 AM.

1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Thanks, Paul,

Good observation. My limited knowledge is with A-D trucks - the brake line that crosses the rear axle is along the top of the rear axle housing, and is mostly inside frame rails elsewhere (except for rubber flex-lines to front wheels/dums).

Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 41
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 41
so what diameter is the brake line and how much trouble is it to bend as in replacing all of the lines?

Thanks

Joined: May 2005
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G
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
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Diameter depends on truck model, measure what it came with. Commonly 1/4" and 3/16", sometimes 5/16".

Not much trouble to bend, much can be done with bare hands, tighter bends will be easier with an appropriately sized tube bender.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,228
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,228
It's not a hard job if you can get the old lines out without cutting them up (to use as patterns), it's a easy Saturday project.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
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Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Jun 2014
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D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 41
Sounds good. I did get the lines off and actually kept them.


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