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| | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 65 | Just adjusted the valves/rockers
For me the best method is to watch when the valve closest to the cab is down then adjust the valve closest to the radiator
Then just work inwards 11 & 2, 10 & 3 ect
But I noticed a fair amount of change had occurred since I did it about 300 miles ago?
I was wondering if there is a particular torue setting for the nuts above the push rods? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | The jamb nut on the rocker doesn't require much torque. Did you set them with the motor running? It is easy to still have a partial lift if you set them cold. If you set them with the motor running at operating temperature, it is possible for the lash to get smaller as the valves wear down into the seat. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 65 | I set them hot after a 30 minute drive I can't imagine how it could be done with the engine running but I'm a willing student in the art of tuning a stovebolt | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | Always set them with the engine running but worn rockers and valve stems will certainly chew up a feeler gauge. A well tuned stovebolt 6 will easily idle at 450rpm (or slower) so if you first loosen the set nuts just a bit you can pick up on getting a screwdriver into the moving adjuster. They make a tool for doing this; it has a 5/8 12 point box wrench end for the jam nut and a spring loaded screw driver with a round knurled knob to turn the adjuster screw. You place the box end on the nut and then rotate the knob till the blade drops in the slot and then screw the adjuster in or out.
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Make sure the "mating surface" (face on the rocker-arms) are smooth - there might be wear-grooves in them. I now set the valve lash for mechanical lifters using a "static" valve lash adjustment technique that Den99 refers to. Except, I bring the engine up to running temperature and then run it for an additional 30 minutes. I find this to be more exact (and much easier and cleaner) than trying to set the lash on a running engine. A tool like the Zim Zip Valve-Lash Adjustment Tool is handy when adjusting valve lash on a running engine. Here are similar tools. | | |
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