The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Body filler over primer?

After sand blasting the cab on my 56 Chevy and repairing a few suprises that resulted from blasting, I shot two medium coats of Dupont S615 Vari prime on the surface. A few zits surfaced after priming. Can I repair these zits with body filler over the primer or is it recommended that I take these areas back to bare metal before filling?
Thanks in advance

Though not a final word by any means but from all my reading it has pointed to use "putty," an undercoat filler, to fill very small imperfections that are noticed after priming.

This is applied using a squeegee as it is too thick to be sprayed.

If the area is very large I think you would be better off stripping the primer and using body filler.

I would use a product called body icing. Make sure and use a catalized spot putty. That red crap the old timers use never seems to dry. Later

Dave

I agree with Bowtie. You need to use a filler with catalyst (i.e. two part mix)in order for it to harden. If you use the red filler from a tube, you might as well just use wood filler.

Guys,
I learned a lot of my body working stuff from my uncle, who owned a body shop in the 60s, so I guess I was schooled by an "old timer." Here is my humble opinion.

The red glazing putty works fine, if you use it as it was intended - VERY VERY VERY THIN. If you use it to fill a pin hole or a hairline scratch, it works great (over primer). Most people try to do too much with glazing putty and it turns into a huge mess.

If you are dealing with anything larger, sand down to bare metal and fill with a two-part body filler, then reprime. Good luck.

- K

Kim's got it, in my experience - the glazing putty is actually very thick primer, not filler like bondo, and meant to be used almost like a 'spot primer' on very minor imperfections

but to the original question - if the 'zits' are real holes, resand and fill properly or if minor, sand and reprime - you can use filler over good primer, especially epoxy, but the consensus seems to be it's best on bare metal

Bill

I'll chime in with my two cents: At the shop when we get a body or part back from the blasters the first thing we do is shoot it with epoxy. This seals the metal until we can work on it. Then when we are ready to work on a part, for dents, patches, etc., the area is sanded down to clean metal. The dents are filled with solder, patch panels are welded in, etc. After both of these are ground/sanded smooth, they are given a coat of GlazeCoat. This fills the little pin hole and imperfections. After this is block sanded and no other imperfections are seen or felt, we hit it with a self-etching primer. The part is done at this point, ready to be skuffed up and shot with a build primer.