The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Otto Skorzeny, dt235sd, Rusted Nut), 80 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,048
Posts1,055,664
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#116260 02/03/2002 8:54 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 390
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 390
Ihave a couple of questions in regaurds to geting my truck sanded down and paint ready.First off what is the best air tool for sanding down and removeing the old paint and rust?I was thinking of a jitter bug or palm sander.What is a da sander?My other concern is primeing the finshed areas.I understand the difference between primer and filling primer but am confussed abought the time frame between primeing and painting.How long can i go between primeing and putting on the topcoat.Is sanding and primeing a good barier for rust?Is primer good for seeing dents and high spots.Iwant to do things right the first time and apreciate the feedback from the expierienced members on this board.Thanks...Ron


1942 1\2 Ton
1951 1\2 Ton 55 willys cj-5
1954 and 59 Cushman Scooter
1960 Biscayne Sedan
1965 G/10 panel van
1966 C/30 Grizzly Motorhome
You know you're a 'Bolter when your daily driver is older than you are...
My progress pics
#116261 02/03/2002 9:35 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
T
Member
Member
T Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
After extensive research this is what I am about to do.

1. Sand down the vehicle a few panels at a time. At this time hammer the metal as straight as possible. Do only so many panels at one time so you can prime them within 2 days. Prime with EPOXY primer ONLY.

2. After the whole truck is done, scuff the areas that need filler with 80 grit. Fill these areas and level.

3. Skim coat where necessary with polyester filler.

4. Block sand and sand and sand and sand and sand whole surface. But, be careful that you never penetrate the expoxy primer. I plan to use a different color so I notice when I reached it.

5. Spray on 2K filling primer.

6. Block sand and sand and sand and sand. Use a guide coat of black to see what you are doing. Work down finer grits. Sand wet.

7. Take to painter for sealer and paint job.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
#116262 02/04/2002 7:46 AM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 41
S
Member
Member
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 41
Quote
First off what is the best air tool for sanding down and removeing the old paint and rust?I was thinking of a jitter bug or palm sander.What is a da sander?
A DA (dual action) sander is a sander with a round pad. The pad has two motions: rotary and orbital, hence dual action. It is probably the best tool for removing paint. Part of the idea of a DA sander is that it has a completely random motion, so it doesn't leave swirls.

Quote
How long can i go between primeing and putting on the topcoat
Not excatly sure on the window between priming and topcoating, but I know lots of people wait a pretty long time.

Quote
Is sanding and primeing a good barier for rust?
Sanding and priming is a good barrier to rust assuming that you 1) remove all of the existing rust first, and 2) use an epoxy primer. Regular primers absorb water and will allow your metal to rust. I think there are some other primers that resist water, but I'm not sure which ones. Most people just use epoxy if they are not topcoating right away.

Quote
Is primer good for seeing dents and high spots
Generally when you are ready to do this, you spray a very light fog of contrasting primer on top of your existing primer. This is called a guide coat. You then take a long straight sanding block and drag it across your surface to find high spots. You fill the high spots and repeat and repeat and repeat until it is all smoothe.

Ed

#116263 02/04/2002 10:48 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 71
P
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
P Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 71
Try the 3M guidecoat stuff. It looks like copy machine toner (probably is). You don't have to let it dry and you can cover 100% of the area you're sanding. Love this stuff--and no paint fumes.

#116264 02/04/2002 11:12 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 390
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 390
What is the diference between a da sander and a random orbital sander?Got to thinking today and i do have a numatic sander.It needs a new rubber pad and ive never used it.By the looks of it i thought it was a random orbital but im not really sure now what it is. Thanks...Ron


1942 1\2 Ton
1951 1\2 Ton 55 willys cj-5
1954 and 59 Cushman Scooter
1960 Biscayne Sedan
1965 G/10 panel van
1966 C/30 Grizzly Motorhome
You know you're a 'Bolter when your daily driver is older than you are...
My progress pics

Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0