The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rust Repair Help

I removed the outer cowl today (pain in the butt!) and found a bit more rust that needs to be addressed.

Im wondering if y'all can take a look and the photos and video and tell me what patch panels I need to buy, or if I can get away with just cutting the rust out and patching with my own.


https://goo.gl/photos/8fLUVMgxckqBbgQbA

Any help is appreciated!

These are Dynacorn numbers

1102BF lower pillar front
1090BB lower inner fender
1114U foot well
1104F rocker panel but you'll only use the end

Thanks Dave!

Different sites have the lower inner fender named something completely different so i wasn't sure.

Is it best to sandblast in there and spray with something before patching it all up?

Blasting is great for that kind of area. Clean up is a good idea for sure. Clean metal for weld. When finished, then paint/coat with any number of products.

Corroseal rust converter is great for areas that are difficult to get to and you are not sure if you did a good job removing the rust. It is a primer and rust converter for bare metal and tight surface rust or clean tight paint. It chemically converts the rust. It can be left as is, painted or primed and painted. It is milky white but after the chemical reaction is complete it dries black. I used this to repair and halt any further rust in some areas that I could not get to. Example: I swabbed the inside of the rolled top of the bed side. No way to get in there to sand the surface. This sealed the surface rust.

You have too much rust in that area to depend on rust converter alone. I am seeing Swiss cheese at the bottom of the inner-to-outer cowl.
Not the end of the world. I would remove the inner-to-outer cowl from the inner cowl. This will allow you to ascertain how much rust is between them.
DO NOT rush out and order a new inner-to-outer-cowl. They do not fit in any way, shape, nor fashion. Instead, just cut out and replace the Swiss cheese metal at the bottom (the rest is usually sound enough to work fine). If you need a patch for the inner cowl, make sure you buy the short, lower portion panel. The full panels DO NOT fit. They are bent completely wrong and will drive you nuts trying to modify them to fit. The lower half panels fit perfectly (go figure. I can't).
Once you patch your inner-to-outer cowl, sand blast it and prime, and paint it, since much of it will be closed in once you put all of the other panels back on.
Carl

Honestly, you have no real idea what you have until you blast it. Once you get to where you need to replace panels, think hard about the structure as a whole. If you remove too much without supporting it, you can do a lot of damage. Doors won't fit after welding, etc. To prevent that, I usually weld an X brace in the door opening.

Especially before going into the internal structural panels. So, replace the outside panel first. Then you can see if the inner cowl structure needs replaced. Sandblast that area to see how far you have to go, then if the structure below the floor needs replaced, I would put in the X brace. Just simple warping that is common with MIG welding can move enough material to make your doors not fit. There is not a lot there that keeps the door opening aligned in the first place, so removing anything can cause problems. Take the door off first.

I have a project in the shop right now where the fellow before me X braced the door AND another one across the cab between the doors. It's probably overkill, but there is no such thing as underkill if you run into real problems after you are done. Take your time and it will come out great!

You need to blast it so you can tell what really damaged. Doing the entire cab isn't a bad idea so yo know what you have then some type of rust converter on the spots you can't get at. We use a 1 gallon sprayer and Ospho to treat the light rust we can't blast such as up the pillars and over the windshield. wear a mask ad goggles that stuff burn if it get on you.

Thank you guys for all the info and suggestions.

Im bouncing back and forth from getting a rolling chassis to body work so after my ford 9" inspection and possible rebuild I'll sandblast and get a better idea!

Mine was about like that in the bottom corner. I just cut out the swiss cheese and scabbed in new metal rather than replace everything. I wire brushed the surface rust and put some ospho in a spray bottle and soaked the complete area. My kick panels on the inside were bad and I replaced them but was able to coat the back side of the cowl with Ospho