The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 292 lifter replacement?

I would like some advice on replacing what I think is a bad/collapsed? lifter. Basically my son had a leaking pushrod cover so we decided to replace them. This is on a 1965 K10 292. On close inspection the #4 lifter appears to have an internal part that has tilted sideways and pushed the rod to the side. From what I can gather there is a clip to hold that in place? Anyway I read this quote while searching for answers.That being said, how easy, where do I get replacements? Really don't want to be taking the head off or removing camshafts, etc. Is it as easy as loosening that rocker arm, pulling rod to side, replace lifter, and readjusting? I know that I need to probably find a manual on the procedure to get the adjusting specifications(those would be helpful if someone knows them). I've had experience with the 216 and have that manual, not the 292's. Long story short can I just replace the one lifter alone or do I have to buy all new lifters and pushrods? What else should I take note of? thanks, 641workmaster

Update: Yes they are avail. anywhere under $5 so now I'd just like to get it replaced today if possible.

Yes, you can replace one lifter. It may or may not solve the problem, depending on the condition of the camshaft lobe it's riding on. You'll need to do a "break-in" run of 15-20 minutes at a fast idle of 2,000 TPM or so before idling the engine immediately after startup, the same way as is done with a new cam and lifter installation. This allows the new lifter to establish a running fit with the cam lobe.

Just loosen the rocker arm nut, remove the pushrod, swap lifters, and re-adjust the preload on the lifter. Then button everything up so the break-in run can be done before starting the engine.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry! I ran across this post of yours on adjustment.
What you've said is inline with someones description on the ChevyTalk forum. When you say the pushrod is sloppy do you mean it moves up and down? or rotates? Also you mention both valves. Does that mean intake and exhaust for the same piston? Just looking for some clarification between what you posted and this other individual. I think you may both be saying the same thing.

I prefer getting the piston to top dead center on the compression stroke at once. If you search "companion cylinder valve adjustment" on this site, you'll probably find the procedure I recommend- - - -I've posted it several times and it's effective for both solid and hydraulic lifters. It involves getting the cylinder that's in between the exhaust and the intake stroke to the top of the cylinder by watching the valve action, and then adjusting both valves of the cylinder halfway around the firing order, as they will both be on the base circle of the camshaft at the top of the compression stroke. Using this method, all the valves in the engine can be adjusted accurately with only two turns of the crankshaft.

Loosen the adjuster until the pushrod can be moved up and down freely a little, maybe 1/8" or so, carefully take all the slack out, and then preload the lifter by turning the nut further. On the 194-292 series engines, 3/4 to 1 turn of the nut works well.
Jerry

Thanks again Jerry. I found your technique outlined on the site and went by that. What I found was that most of the valves were a 1/4 to 7/8 turns tighter than they are now. I used the 3/4 turn method after the slack was taken up as outlined. Of course this is with the engine cold. Tomorrow I will run it for a good 20 minutes and redo the procedure. Kyle

On hydraulic lifters a hot re-adjustment really isn't necessary. There's enough range of motion of the lifter plunger to account for any growth of the pushrod and/or valve stem to make a hot adjustment a moot point.
Jerry

Yeah I see that now. Just used to my 216's.

Update. Pushed the truck out of the garage to start it and break in the new lifter. Upon start up, it sounds like a lot of clacking going on for just the guilty valve. Before it was quite quiet except for the offending one. I did not take the valve cover off to watch but just shut it right down to maybe make a 1/4 turn on all of them to make it a full 1 turn.

My only other thought of confusion may lie in the movement of the rod when I was adjusting for "slack". I interpreted it as just eliminating the free play up and down although the rod would still turn. That's how I adjusted. Now I am wondering if all play, up and down and rotating should be "just" eliminated? Thoughts?

I suppose I could have run it longer and it may have quieted down. Didn't want to damage anything.

Tonight will push it back in and make the adjustments, push it out, and watch with valve cover off.

A new lifter needs a little running time to pump up with oil. It is hard to adjust it with a new lifter as there is little resistance after you take up the slack. Back it off & turn the adj. down till there is no play in the rocker. Then turn it down the additional 3/4 turn.

I bench bleed new lifters in a container of clean oil to purge the air out of them. Submerge the lifter in a the oil and pump the plunger up and down with a Phillips screwdriver until the air bubbles quit coming out.
Jerry