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#115830 05/25/2004 5:38 AM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
R Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 351
OK I'm Ready!
I've finally scrapped together a few large to get from just thinking about it to actually letting the rust fly. Oh, did I mention rust?
I live in way Southern Cal but the truck is from throw a little salt on the road Cincinatti. Got rust everywhere-everywhere!
Also, unfortunately, I don't have much in the way of area to do much more than disassembly and reassembly. So need to farm out the heavy stuff. I would like recomendations on how to proceed by dividing up the truck. Starting with everything in and around the bed including driveline, suspention, brakes, lines, frame. Then to do all work under the hood including the hood and all surrounding. And then saving the cab area for last. Three Summers, $3,000 per Summer. What do ya think? Dreamin? Or? I live in North County San Diego. So I'm close to Orange Couty as well. Anyone know any honest shops that dip, beed blast, weld, coat, primer?
I would love to do a frame off but I don't have the room. Can't my frame be blasted in the sections I named above?
Thanks from listening. I'll be watching for replys.
jeff :p

#115831 05/25/2004 3:34 PM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 438
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Shop Shark
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Posts: 438
Jeff (RTrap)-

Welcome to the Stovebolt. You've come to the right place for advice. We have lots of southern CA members should be able to suggest some shops to look up in your area. In regards to your questions, plenty of guys have reworked their trucks in tight spaces with limited funds. The key is taking steps every day and having a vision. Where do you want to end up in 3 years? If the scope of your project matches a realistic budget, you'll be successful.

In regards to your questions about working in sections, there are plusses and minuses. Yes, you can blast or brush in sections, but the problem will be keeping media (such as sand) away from places you don't want it. For this reason, most go for the whole frame thing, then work to get it back together. Could you spend some $ on a storage unit for a few months? It might be money well spent in the long haul.

Collectively, lots of experience here. Glad you're aboard!

#115832 05/25/2004 5:51 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11
M
Junior Member
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Posts: 11
If you have a lot of rust on the cab and need to replace toe boards, floor boards, innner to outer cowl and kick panels I don't know how you can do a real good job of replacing them without puling the cab. The one thing that is very important is to make sure your front cab mounts are structurally sound. I found the cab really doesn't take up all that much room. I pulled mine set it on three flat dollies with the back of the cab resting on a cradle of 2X4s and 4X4s it worked great just take your time an handle it carefully and no dammage will come to the cab. Good luck.


Rich
#115833 05/26/2004 4:37 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
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You could just go on a road trip over to Mother Trucker's in Arizona and get yourself a nice rustfree cab to start with, that would save you a lot of work.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
#115834 05/31/2004 2:11 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 113
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Posts: 113
Just for the record, my 54 3100 is also a Cinci gal, and she's rusted up a bit too......but from sitting outside alot. I also have no room to work, so my plan is similar to yours -with a few mods. My goal this year is the get her good as new mechanically under the hood - drive train, suspension, rear-end, steering, brakes and all. (Almost done) Over the winter I'm going to start removing sheet metal to get to bare frame. I hope to triage body parts and bed and see what I can fix myself and what I need to farm out. Hope to have all body parts ready and primed by June or July. With only the cab on the frame, I'll take it to a body shop and have it sanded and primed. When it comes home (hopefully before July) I intend to park her in driveway, wirebruch and clean the frame and all other parts underneath, then spread out a drop cloth and spray on somne zero-rust. Once it dries I'll prime and paint, then begin re-assembly of reworked body parts. Since I haven't disturbed the engine or cab, it should be easy to reconnect existing wiring so that I can drive her a bit. The following winter I'm planning on re-wiring and interior work. Following spring - a new paint job. After that, drive and enjoy!!

Good luck and enjoy!!


Bruce (I love My Truck) Miller

1954 5 Window 3100 Chevy Pickup - Driver
1929 **** Model A Pickup - Restoration

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