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#1157248 03/28/2016 3:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 125
P
Shop Shark
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Posts: 125
Any suggestions on what to try before rebuild? Ive heard marvel mystery oil and let sit for a day or two. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


1964 impala ss
1949 chevy 3100
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
If it runs, keep driving it with the MMO, it fixed my old 265 from a rebuild. I had to put a couple hundred miles on before I saw any improvement. Best of luck

Last edited by JiMerit Boltr#43; 03/28/2016 3:54 PM.

It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Drain the oil and refill with straight HD 30 weight motor oil. Add 2-3 quarts of Kerosene or Diesel fuel so the crankcase level is above the level of the big ends of the rods and the counterweights. Start the engine and run it at a moderately fast idle, maybe 1500 RPM, for 20 minutes or so. The splash from the crankshaft dipping into the oil will spray the solvent all inside the engine, including the bottoms of the pistons and the cylinder walls. It will do a better job of pressure-washing the inside of the engine than just about any kind of manual scrubbing can do.

Just don't drive the vehicle or put any kind of load on the engine. After 20-30 minutes, shut the engine off and drain the crankcase while the oil is still hot. Refill with fresh oil and change the filter element if the engine has one.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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'Bolter
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Pking, please report back when you take action on the Professor's advice, so we can share with the masses.


Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette

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I used a combination of Jim and HRL's methods on a 63 Avanti 289 several years back and can attest to how much it helped. It went from Vector control to acceptable.

if you're curious I posted a vid about the car last week (it's up for sale) and it shows the current 'state of affairs'.

WARNING: OT link to OT car...


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
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S
'Bolter
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Done the HRL method many times. It not only "unsticks" rings...it will dislodge lots of sludge. That is why the filter needs to be changed. Getting the oil out while it is still warm, flushes any thing out at the same time. No driving! Just let it run at a fast idle and get warm(up to temp) then let it run for another 10 minuets or so. It can do wonders, and it won't hurt any thing. Diesel is about 2.20 here so it is cheap to try.


Steve H
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I tried a lot of things on my old 235 before discovering a crack in the block. One was spraying water through the carb with a spray bottle... not sure it did anything, but I don't think it hurt anything either.

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B
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by gusco
One was spraying water through the carb with a spray bottle... not sure it did anything, but I don't think it hurt anything either.

More for removing carbon from top of pistons.
Have used Diesel before, works well. The old G.M. top engine cleaner in the metal can was great stuff, but alas no more! Wound have eaten the plastic bottle the new stuff comes in.
AFT works well to mix in the crankcase, more lube than diesel. I have used it mostly to remove crankcase sludge but might loosen up rings.
One last note, change engine oil & filter (if equipped) a 2nd time after a some driving.
my $.02


BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022

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