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| | Forums66 Topics126,778 Posts1,039,288 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 35 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 35 | I dont want to ruin anything. | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 864 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 864 | either unbolt steering box off frame and remove with cab or take off steering wheel and carefully remove cab off column | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Take the steering wheel off the column.
Remove the steering column seal.
Unbolt the steering box from the frame (remember the bolt underneath the frame).
Pull the steering box/column assembly forward to remove it.
Tim
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | The above answers sound great. I'd add that you should unclamp it from the dash, and unplug the horn wire and remove the turn signal switch if you have one.
I'm guessing you thought it would be easier though.. it's not. Well not all that hard, just not as easy as you would hope.
Grigg | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I generally also remove the drag link from the pitman arm before unbolting the steering box from the frame.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Everyone has posted pieces of good information. I hope no one minds if I put them together so that a reader in the future does not have to piece the steps together? Also, I'll include the shift-lever-assembly step for three-speed-shifter-lever on the column.
To remove the cab leaving the steering column inplace: - Take the steering wheel off the column. - Unplug the horn wire. - Unclamp the steering column from the dash. - (Remove the shift lever assembly and the turn signal switch, if you have them.) - Remove the steering column seal. - Carefully remove cab up-off the column.
Or, with the cab in place: - Take the steering wheel off the column. - Unplug the horn wire. - Unclamp the steering column from the dash. - (Remove the shift lever assembly and the turn signal switch, if you have them.) - Remove the steering column seal. - Remove the drag link from the pitman arm - Unbolt the steering box from the frame (remember the bolt underneath the frame). - Pull the steering box/column assembly forward to remove it.
Please post corrections and/or additions.
Tim | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,972 Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator | Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,972 | That's the way I like it, step by step. I have an Oliver Super 55 tractor and the service manual for that is terrific. It actually goes through every step. The Chevy manual.... not so much. A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Please post corrections and/or additions. Nice summary Tim. I've done both approaches, though not recently, and don't see any omissions. Maybe someone else will?
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 | Hy tclederman and guys, the only thing I would add is that I would remove the pitman arm rather than the drag link, or maybe that is what you meant to say. The pitman arm is the part that is attached to the steering box, and the drag link attaches to it. If your steering box passes through the frame you can't remove it without removing the pitman arm first, you will need a strong puller to remove the pitman arm after getting its retaining nut off, hope that helps. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Bobb,
On any 47-55 A-D/ND truck, does the steering box pass through the frame? I have only done 1/2 ton trucks and a 2-ton COE (last week).
My limited experience has been that removing the pitman arm can be tough and not necessary - I've done that with/on a bench press.
Thanks, Tim
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | As far as I know and have seen for the AD trucks the steering box is only on top of, not passing through, the frame.
If you plan to remove the pitman arm from the box most of the usual tool suppliers offer a special pitman arm puller that you may find handy. I've got a nice Snap-On version that works very well even on the stubborn ones.
I've only pulled a cab over the column.. But thinking about pulling the column from under the cab it may be handy to remove the left front wheel first to make access easier.
Grigg | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I chose drag link over pitman because I've fought much harder with the pitman arms than the drag links, but yes if you can simply remove the pitman it does make the job easier.
My COE's are parked too far away to go look, but I know the steering on my 4400 and 6400 both look just like a 3100 or 3800 and the removal process should be the same.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Grigg, On a 2-ton GMC COE (that you know quite well), it was very easy to remove the steering box/column with the cab in place AFTER removing the fender and 9 or 10 inner fender pieces (no need to remove the radiator). I'd remove the inner fender and radiator first on a standard cab. Tim | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | That's good to know Tim, sounds like a lot bigger job that I expected. Hadn't thought about the inner fender, but it would have to go, and to get to it the outer fender comes off too... Wait a minute now.. now that I think about it I have done this before, on my 52 1 ton. I did leave the radiator in place, but as you noted the inner and outer fender do come out first.
Grigg | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 | Hy guys, the mechanic in me wanted me to tell you about the pitman arm removal, for me it's easier to do with the box bolted to the frame. It is true that if the box doesn't pass through the frame it isn't absolutely necessary to remove the pitman arm, but I would take it off the box while it's bolted to the frame, that's my best advice. | | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 91 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2011 Posts: 91 | Hey
Is there a reason why I can't disconnect the steering column from the steering box? There is a collar held on by one nut and bolt. (Refer to my latest picture in photobucket). I'm going to assume that just opens pandora's box unless I hear otherwise. I don't have the necessary expertise or tools to do it the way you guys described. I'll just leave the cab on and lift it to paint. Thanx in advance. | | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 91 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2011 Posts: 91 | Good God! Sometimes I think I have got in way over my head. Thanx, I would have never got it back together. ~m | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 | The steering mast cover may come off of the steering box, but the actual steering shaft with the worm gear attached is all one piece, so removing the cover doesn't help. Mike B  | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 9 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 9 | Opps........ wished I read this before I split the box at lunch.
I don't see any balls....... I am sure they are there. | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 9 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 9 | I don't know. Mine spun back in. Everything seems to work. Still don't see any balls. I think I am going knock on wood and never ever do that again. | | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 91 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2011 Posts: 91 | Got it. (1941 through 46) After heating the pitman arm nut, it came right off. That way, the pitman arm stays attached to the drag link. And, the steering shaft and box come off as a unit after loosing, (not removing) two nuts that hold the box to the frame. Nothing to it once I got over my fear. Refer to my latest photobucket pix. | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 39 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 39 | Just used this thread tonight to remove the steering column off my 55.1 and it was as easy as the steps. Especially the heads up about that last bolt through the under side of the frame. Thanks guys!
1955.1 Chevy 5 window 3100 Instagram - @1955.1chevy
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | How much "crud" did you have to remove to clearly see that "last bolt"?
Congratulations.
| | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 39 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 39 | There was so much that I don't know if I would have been able to find it had I not been told about it. It was said somewhere that more "crud" buildup equals less rust and I can attest to that. I have so much crud everywhere and everything is really solid on my truck despite it sitting in Colorado for most of its life. Even the cab corners are solid 
1955.1 Chevy 5 window 3100 Instagram - @1955.1chevy
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