The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Ideas for hot rod

Been thinking about once my current restoration is done, using some of my accumulated extra parts to build a little rat rod. I like the style that is in the picture at the link below. I've got the cab and doors, and can hunt down a nice 350 motor/tranny that will work. I guess my question is what would be the most straightforward way to build a frame. thought about using an s10 frame to build it from. I know they match up pretty easily for width and cab.

This project is a long way out, but was just thinking about getting a few opinions on what would be the easiest way to go about putting one together from a frame and suspension setup standpoint.

https://www.facebook.com/CustomClas...5001/515465858636097/?type=3&theater

A lot less work to use the S10. Adapter kits available for the engine swap. Fabrication is pretty straight forward .

If you want fenderless, I wouldn't recommend an S-10 frame. They look lousy fenderless, and the adapter kits for mounting the engine most likely won't put the engine where you want it.

What I've seen some guys do is build a test frame from wood to check the dimensions, ride height, etc. Once they do that they build the real frame from tubing.

If you want something like that picture I would start from a 30's-40's frame or from scratch using tubing. Anything modern won't look right fenderless.

Here is one I attempted back in t 2009 / 2010...

I used all vintage Chevy parts too...250 cu in 6 cylinder. 4 speed out of a 1970's truck...Chevy Camaro rear end...

yea old rat rod

Good luck with your project...

MikeC

I used a Chassis Engineering front end, X member and brakes. 350 SBC and a 4 spd Saginaw....the hot set up for not a lot of cash...and it bolts right in.

Looks like a fun project Jon. Get it figured out and start a journal so we can ride your coat tails.

I have to agree,they really need a beam axle and ideally split 'bones to carry off the fenderless look.

S-10 chassis' while popular,relatively cheap and commonly available (at least on your side of the pond) sure aren't purty!

Yeah, they're great when they're hidden under the sheetmetal, I love mine, But for fenderless... just no. The I-beam with split 'bones is my preference as well.

Was looking back through some old posts. I'm going to shelve the idea for now. Too much effort and too little margin. I think I'll just craigslist my spare parts once my beast is done. Would be fun, but one more thing to park, keep running, and knock dust off of. Honestly looking at a mid 2000s Tahoe or Suburban 4x4 to convert into a fishing/camping/hunting rig. Thinking that I will sell my CJ7 and buy the tahoe. I'll use it way more than a hot rod.

Split wishbones and cross springs are strictly a Ford design, but they make a frame lightweight and easy to build. Doing a ladder style frame with rectangular tubing and cross springs and then channeling a stovebolt cab over it would look a little "Rube Goldberg", but it would be fairly easy to build.
Jerry

I have seen many ratrodded fenderless ADs and have yet to see one that looked right. Its all about the area of where the fenders used to meet the side cowls of the cab. It just doesn't work.

If you filled in the cowl area and smoother out the firewall to where it met the cowl, it would help. The other issue is the cab is so darn big. Chop the top and then narrow the cab up. A big block with Zoomies, yeah that would do.

I've had a similar project bouncing around my head for several years due to the massive amount of modification needed I decided to build it as a model. Stock frame from a 54 (I have a junk one) Z'ed and shortened. Motor would be a Buick Straight 8 (Also have the motor) 10 inches Sectioned out of the middle of the cab. Square off firewall and cowl (Like a roadster should be). I didn't do it on the model but most likely section some height out of the cab as well, or potentially raise the floor to get the body further over the frame and closer to the ground. Shortened bed.. Never figured for sure what the scale measurement would be but it needs to balance out the massive Buick 8 on the front.
Ahh, also I've collected a 4 inch drop axle for the front and planned on running 16 inch wheels all the way around.

Mongo's Garage AD Roadster Hot Rod

Some time back I decided I was going to own every body style of AD trucks there were... Then I decided I needed a few that didn't exist..

Mongo

Ahh to clarify on the frame I planned on using the 54 3/4 Ton frame for a couple different reasons the rear axle kick up is lower so the bed can sit 2 inches lower on the frame and the frame rails are parallel from the cab back as opposed to tapering all the way back as on the 1/2 ton. This should make Zing the frame a little easier. Also the 3/4 ton frame is heavier to accommodate the Buick motor and all the modification..

Buick drivetrain... I like what you're thinking Mongo.

So I went to deliver some parts to a body shop this week and they asked me if I wanted a cab they got back from getting blasted that was way too far gone for them to use for their customer otherwise they were going to send it to the scrapper. I took a look and although it was really really bad, It had an unmolested radio hole and the cowl vent didn't look too bad so I figured I could cut those out to put on the shelf when a customer needed to fix either of those spots. So being bare metal I didn't want to leave it outside so I've been working around it in the shop all week. Saturday afternoon I got a few minutes and fired up the plasma cutter to trim out the patch pieces. Then I decided that the cab would be perfect to mock up the roadster project full size. So I went ahead and cut the firewall/toeboard and the top off and sectioned the center out of the cab. For now I screwed it together with a couple scraps since my welder is at my other shop right now. I did the obligatory milk crate drive to test the fit and I'm liking it. The milk crate is a little tall, but I've got an S-10 bench that should fit nice and set a little lower.
If I end up sticking with this cab for the project it's going to need a lot of work but it's a pretty seriously modified project to begin with. The floor is pretty toast so I'm thinking a whole new one piece Floor/Toe/Firewall and in the process of that I might raise the floor a couple inches more to further hide the frame under the cab.
Anyway It's going to get rolled in the corner of my other shop for now but when I get some more time I'll pull it out and tinker some more with it.

And I added some pics to the gallery I shared before above and HERE

Worse case I saved some pieces that will help some other guys.
Keep on Truckin' Guys..
MONGO

That's great! Looks too fun as a roadster.

Looking good so far, Mongo.
Good plan on not making the full sized one out of soap.

Mongo, no one ever accused you of thinking out of the box!
Use it up, or wear it out.
Do with or do without...................your my hero, Steve!

That looks really cool Mongo!