The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Three on Tree fix / adjustment.

My 63 ' three on tree '. column shifter keeps jamming.
Any tricks to fix or on adjustment.
Tnx.
Ron Loudonville NY

You've read and followed the repair manual instructions?

Without going into too much detail, there is a hole in both arms sticking out of the bottom of the steering column (inside engine compartment). You may have to loosen or remove one of the shift linkage, but slide a drill bit of correct size into both holes to align the arms. Make sure the trans is in neutral, then adjust both shift linkages (at the trans) so they just slip into the trans shift arms. With the neutral shift points adjusted, remove the drill bit and you should be able to shift through the gears. Of course, if you have worn bushings or shift arms then you'll have to fix them first. And of course, you'll never win a drag race w 3-on-the-tree shifting, so be sure to be accurate w your column shifter. I love mine but still get it jammed up once in a while.

Thanks for excellent responses.
I have read about bushings; how do I access them?
Also, I've seen utube videos about tightening up adjustment, but my '63 unit doesn't have a second bolt on a collar that you can whack to adjust collar.
Mine just has one bolt that holds the adjustment.

My 60-66 manual doesn't seem to address this issue fully.

After ten years or so on a home-made floor bracket I went back to the column shift.

With the wheels chocked, sit in the driver's seat and the column shifter in neutral. THE POSITION OF THE SHIFT LEVER SHOULD BE HORIZONTAL, NO IFS, BUTS, OR MAYBES. The shifter should easily glide back and forth within the neutral gate without obstruction. Lightly tape the shifter in the horizontal position.

In the engine compartment loosen the adjusting rods . You may need to do this to CREATE THE HORIZONTAL SHIFT ARM IN STEP ONE.

Underneath the truck at the transmission ensure that each shifter is in it's neutral position by shifting the arms by hand one at a time.

Shifter in neutral, transmission in neutral you return to the engine compartment to adjust rods of free play.

IF YOU HAVE PIVOT POINTS WITH WORN OR OVALIZED PIVOT POINTS...you need to visit a vendor for replacing these worn bushings, they are cheap, do it anyway.

That is the basics as I know it from a previous generation of shift column. My column shifter is easy shifting and shifts easily and surely as I have made several modifications that I won't go into here as I have a '49 column shifter with home-made, bent and threaded rods going to a '69 3sp+od transmission.

You can do it and it will shift well, it does take time.

Good luck!

The adjustments & bushings are important but if it hangs between gears you usually need to o-haul the shift box. Youcan disassemble it & build up the worn places with weld & grind them down. Rub the top cover over sand paper to take up the wear in the holes.

Wrenchbender and others,
Welding and grinding these shifting nibs back to stock is doable but I do not know what un-worn ones look like. Are these things blocky looking, with very slightly rounded edges? Maybe a picture or two of a great functioning set. I am going to be removing my steering column in the next couple days to cut it, add u-joints, and collapsible shaft, so figure I will restore it from wheel down. Perfect chance to do some weld buildup.
thanks,
Cavebull

For what it is worth here is what I am dealing with.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/26149183986/in/dateposted-public/

For lack of better terms, lets go with 23 Lever, 1R Lever, and tube Lever.
1) Tube lever looks like it needs material added top, bottom, and upper and lower middle.
2)23 Lever - is it supposed to be rounded like this?
3) 1R Lever - it looks like it needs corners added to and squared. Lengthened too maybe?
Cavebull