The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop body experts - what basic tools?

Hey body experts, getting ready to do a bit of body work on my '65 C20. Never done any before and this truck's a beater so it's a good vehicle to learn/practice. I weld decent with a mig and have already cut out and replaced some metal. What would you say are the 5 (or so) most essential body tools? I don't have any serious dents just the usual rust areas that need patch panels, plenty of corrosion treatment and sanding.

A good general rule, buy better than you think you'll need. For example, get a bigger compressor than the minimum. Go as big as you possibly can. D/A sander, buy a really good brand (I'd look around for a bluepoint palm style - watch ebay for a deal) and try to get a palm held model. NAPA has a nice hammer and dolly set. I got mine on a student deal. The box it comes in is very cheezy looking, but the stuff inside is very good. Avoid cheap stuff for things you will use more than rarely. If you will use something only once or twice, maybe a more cost effective model will do.

Here is a link to a thread about this topic - there is a ton of info in here - great thread!

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=001805#000026

also see:

http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=005647;p=

These were both EXTREMELY informative.

- Ryan

forgive me but, what's a DA sander?

I could be wrong - but we always call them Disk/Accessories. But I've never heard of a palm held model. Which makes me think there are multiple definitions of DA.

What I call a D/A (possibly incorrectly) is a basically a disk sander that you can change the backing plate on to do things other than sand - i.e., buffing.

Are you trying to strip paint? If so, and you're outside, I suggest a paint stripper (liquid/gel). Zip Strip makes some remover that can be used indoors and is non-flamable with zero fumes.

- Ryan

OK, that's kinda what I was thinking for the sander. No, not much paint stripping. A couple things I'm gonna take off and use stripper though. Mostly I'm fixing the previous owners really bad work. There's pounds and mounds of filler so there's gonna be some cutting and welding and then there's a bit of stuff here and there to straighten and smooth. Thanks for the inputs.

To go along with this topic, I learned that early body filler was lead. As I was sanding I noticed a different texture in an area of a fender. Was told that lead was used before the bondo that we all use today was invented. Not something you want to be breathing the dust from. Used a propane torch to melt out the old repair. FYI

If you are into the watching to learn mode, hit www.paintucation.com and read the descriptions for Kevin's "Metal Prep & Rust Repair" video and his newest offering "Body Shop Basics". Both would prove invaluable to the newby wanting to learn the skills and safe procedures. Some of this stuff, even though it may not kill you, if used incorrectly, might have been better if it had.
Bruce Palmer
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DA = Dual Action. Less chance of leaving circular marks in metal, primer, paint, etc.

Actually early PAINT had lead in it too. Keep that in mind whenever you are sanding an old car or even an old house.

-Boyo

DA = dual action. Mine can be easily adjusted for circular or orbital action. The drawback is they require alot of air or patiece.

Beat me to the draw boyo

I thought I might be wrong!

Thanks for clarifying -

- Ryan

Go to the thread "Basics of Basics" and click on the link. There you will find a "Basics" of buying tools. There is no list, but it gives an overview of how to go about buying what you need.

For metal work, a die grinder with a cut off wheel attachment is an absolute nessesity as far as I am concerned. And don't buy a wimpy one from Harbor Frieght (read the "Basics" ) they don't have any torque and are simply a waste of money.

A simple "heel" dolly and a nice flat faced body hammer are all you need to get started. Go to http://www.covell.biz/ for the best prices on high quality body tools. His videos are more for the hot rodder wanting to fabricate things, but they are TOP KNOCH!! I have a number and I am telling you, they are entertainment for the family, my kids will sit and watch them. Ron is a true master at this stuff.

Of course a MIG welder will be needed.

An "orbital" sander unlike a "DA" which can be set on "orbital" or straight spinning like a grinder is it ONLY is an "orbital" sander. The "Palm" style orbitals are to die for. A good quality orbital sander like Hutchins or DynaBrade are SOOOOOO nice to work with. These are 6" disc sanders what "orbit" out of a circle creating a sort of spirograph sort of pattern. They create less heat, less scratches, less chance to of digging in to a body line, etc. They are VERY valuable tools.

I don't ever use my "DA" for anything other than "metal finishing" using a 120 grit disc in the grinder mode.

These orbital sanders can be bought with such a fine pattern (the closer the orbiting patterns are together the more "gentle" it is) you can cut clear with 2000 and finer paper and buff it!

You can "block" plastic filler with them they run so flat and smooth. Though you should always go back over your plastic filler to be sure it is flat, or over large areas of course you would need to. But believe me, you can get good enough with these orbitals to get it darn flat.

This is not limited to 6" by the way. I have two National Detroit 8" "Bondo hogs" as they are commonly called. These tools are THE BEST for cutting large flat plastic filler projects. They are pricy at about $250.00 but if they were a thousand dollars I would still have one in my box.

Thanks fellas for all the advice. Feel like I can go buy some tools and do this thing. Ain't gonna be as pretty as Earl Scheib but...

d/a sanders as i recall back years ago about forty when they where introduced to the body shops the first ones where produced by detroit air hence the name d/a i like the dual action as the reason for the name i could be wrong as age does that to ya and i love those new palm held dinabraids no more vibrations well worth the almost 200 bucks