The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 1953 Cab question

So in looking for a replacement cab for my 53 3800...what years are an IDENTICAL swap without rebuilding the cab mounts, gas tank issues, door compatibility, dash mismatch etc.

I know this has been covered, but it gets muddled.

Obviously 53...and down to what year?

PAULSPICKUPPARTS over on the other truck forum said this at one time, but listed no years...


Thanks,
Larry W.

http://devestechnet.com/Home/History

You could go with a 51-53 Cab and all should be fine. I don't think there were any cab structural issues that differed. Someone will tell me if I am wrong.

Great info on the page about changes by year. Thanks

I think I'll shoot for 52-53 donors.

Larry W.

This is just my opinion, but the very best cab of all the AD years is 1949 and 1950 for the side opening vent. It's just cool and something not everyone has. The only differences are in the door latch system. This is not a HUGE problem, just one that needs to be addressed. My 1950 has 1953 doors so I know whats involved. Since I like the original wrap around style, I simply reshaped the original ones to fit the newer doors. So really, if it were me, I would look for a SOLID AD Cab 1949-1953. If you have a choice of a rust bucket 1953 or a more solid 1950, it's an easy decision.

Meanwhile, there were many factories that made cabs in the day. This meant parts that were stamped from different molds. I have personally run into a huge problem with doors that do not fit properly. I can't prove it, but I think it had more to do with the different factories (different stamps) than it did different years. My problem occurred when I used a 1950 cab with 1953 doors. The doors are 1/4" too big for the opening! Through some creative cutting, welding and massaging I got them to fit perfectly, but the doors came off of a St Louis, MO truck and my cab is a KC truck. Long story short, whatever you do, measure the door openings and your doors carefully before purchase. They did not make the doors bigger in 1953. Others have had no problems doing that.

How bad is your cab? I had to replace every panel that's available and several that are not to get mine in shape. Maybe it's salvageable?

52-53 would would be the easiest options. A 51 would have door striker plate issues.
Carl

Biggest thing for me is, I am no body man. Cab corners, floor patches I can muddle through that.

My cab needs, floors, supports, kick panels in and out, toe boards, cab corners, belt line work and has a hole above the windshield.

The parts will be as much as a good cab I would bet.

I will likely try to get doors with the cab...at least one of mine has a quarter size hole in the outer skin, 10-12 inches up from the bottom.

Larry W.

I can relate to your situation. I would have been money ahead if I would have just paid the roughly $600 for a better cab, but decided my welder won't pay for itself, so did it the Deve/Hard way. In the end, I replaced:

1) both rear corners, inside and out.
2) both kick panels and internal kick panel/wheel well supports
3) both outer cowl panels from top to bottom
4) the entire top vent area at the windshield
5) both left and right floor panels and both supports
6) most of the toeboard
7) the middle of the dash (someone cut a hole for a larger radio)
8) three large holes in the roof
9) the doors required slicing all the way up top to bottom on the outside of the truck to push the seam back enough to accommodate doors that were 1/4" larger than the opening.

After that, I addressed new inside bottom door panels, some patching on the outside, fender patching and tweaking, etc, etc.

All of this and [I AM NO BODY MAN.] It's painful when you don't know what you are doing. Since then I have done two other cabs and will be working on a fourth soon. Gotta start somewhere! What helps is having guys who know more than I do HERE. So whatever you decide you won't be doing it alone!

It took me from 2009 to 2016 to finish my 37 John Deere, no body work, well very little. Granted, didn't touch it for a two year period, but....

https://mrf1002usjohndeeres.shutterfly.com/

Point is, I want to drive this truck sooner than later. If I find a cab that needs less work, I'll go that route.

Larry W.

I have found what looks to be maybe a 49-50 cab. It looks REALLY solid. Even cab corners look solid. It has doors.

Has no wing windows which I think I like anyway.
Has drivers cowl vent.
Has turn down door handles.
Has gas filler on passenger side of cab so tank is behind the seat.
I can't see wiper knob or driver cowl vent handle in pictures that I have so far.

Owner just told me it has shackle mounts at rear of cab, so it could only be a 49 or 50 based on shackle mounts and drivers cowl vent right?

Anything else we haven't covered here as far as using a 49 or 50 CAB AND DOORS on a 53 truck?

Larry W.

That cab will fit a '53 frame like a glove.

Thanks Carl.

More concerned with the topside matching up if I get a 49-53 cab. Just figuring as long as I get the doors that were on the truck, everything else would be less critical.

Never swapped one before and this is my first AD.

Larry W.

The last sentence in this page describes the difference from 47-48 and 49-50 cab mounts. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0101.htm
After that change the cab mounts stayed the same through 54. So the cab will fit, if it is from 49-54. The doors were changed to the wing type in 51. Push button door came in..52? I think. The doors will fit as far as I know into any year cab.

From what I read on here. All that is correct other than some people have referenced a difference in the door latch area. Some say that there have to be changes made to put say, 51 doors on a 53 cab. Turn downs vs. push buttons. Whether that is just changing strikers or actually changing the metal on the cab where the striker mounts, has been unclear for me.

Actually won't matter for me I hope, as I will hopefully get doors and cab as a set.

What I meant by "up top" was more about having my existing 53 fenders and hood match up to maybe a 49 or 51 cab.

Larry W.

Steve,

Sorry for the late reply, but I must have missed your post and skipped to the more recent one. Great info on the cab mounts, I have not seen that one before. So 49-53 will match frame, as well as fenders, hood etc.

Larry W.

Thanks Guys,

I got a nice 1951 GMC cab and doors from Mongo (Steve) at Mongo's Garage in Kansas City MO. Mongo was a pleasure to deal with, and after MANY tries at arranging transport, he ended up driving it halfway to Ohio when I was visiting my Dad there. We met in Illinois and did the swap from his vehicle to mine. I took it back to Ohio and then drove it back to Florida yesterday.

Mongo went above and beyond guys. He took pictures and then a video later. Let me tell you, the video seals the deal compared to pictures.

Yes,it needs some floor and toe board work, but that is a cakewalk compared to what my other cab needed.

I love the cab lights, I'll be using them. They'll look good with my flat bed dually.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/krhsvqjex9bqrcz/AADL3lVlKuLgxDpwUu9bruQba?dl=0

Thanks again Mongo.

Larry W.

Mongo is first class in many of our books. He is a big influence in the Fall Stovebolt Reunion in KC. Busy man but always takes the time for us Bolters.