The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Truck/Car lifts

I'am thinking about getting a truck/car lift.
Anyone have any preference over a two post or four post lift?
Lift capacity?
My preference right now is a two post rated at 10,000 pounds. But I would have to cut out the shop floor and pour a thicker base. It's about five inches with rebar now and they say you need at least ten inches.
All thoughts are welcome, pro's and con's.

Thanks
Don

Two post lifts make working on wheels and suspension parts along with exhaust easier. More costly to install. Require getting down on your knees to set the arms and setting the stand offs can be tricky at times. They require you to be more safety conscious.

Four post lifts can be free standing and easier to position the vehicle on. You have to be creative or purchase the air/hydrolic jacking attachment to get the wheels up for work. In my opinion they are safer for the hobby user.

I like my 4 post lift for the convienence of installing the wheels and moving it around as needed.

I've researched them a few times and keep coming back to a Mohawk 12,000 lb two post lift as the first choice and a Rotary 12,000 lb as second choice. Both brands also offer a 15 or 16,000 lb which are mostly the same physical size as the 12,000lb versions. I wouldn't mind either.

http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/automotive-lifts/2-post-lifts/lmf-12-tp-16/

http://www.rotarylift.com/Lifts/SPO12/

They're both expensive new but on several occasions I've seen them for sale used and appeared in good shape for a fraction of the new cost. If you have time then searching for a used one might pay off. I gave up looking for now until I'm really ready to buy one and install it.

Check the concrete specs recommended for the lift you do decide on because your existing slab may be adequate.

Grigg

I started out using single and dual cylinder in-ground lifts, and when above-ground systems came along it was the best thing since sliced bread! I've used 2-post, 4-post and scissors lifts, and unless you're doing a lot of wheel alignment, the 2-post is the best idea. Check with your local commercial lift distributor- - -most of them will have slightly-used lifts they have repo'ed from shops that go out of business, and they are usually willing to sell and install them at a bargain price. For the hobby-type user, you don't need the latest and greatest thing on the market, just something that's safe and reliable.
Jerry

Thank's guys!
I really like the two pole lifts for more access to the under carriage.
12,000 pounder would be sweet and safe for the old red Ferd diesel.
Heck. it would also lift a Goldwing.
Thinking now about some steel mounting plates instead of cutting and digging out the floor to pour a thicker base.
1/2 inch plate and big enough to make a big foot print connected to both posts? Anchored in at least 12 places with 3/8 to 1/2 anchor bolts. I like overkill for safety.
It still may be a day dream, but you never know what may come along.

Thanks
Don

If you approximately double the footprint of the lift columns with a 1/2" steel plate, that should be safe enough, and probably less expensive than digging up the floor. That's what I plan to do with the 6" thick floor of my shop when I install a twin-post lift soon.
Jerry

Have an engineer look over your 1/2" plate idea. The lift manufacturer might help out. I'd be concerned 1/2" might not be stiff enough to add much effective footprint.

My plan is to remove a section of concrete as wide as the whole lift and front to back a few feet more than the bases. Dig out under it for a well overkilled reinforced concrete slab/block dovetailed under the remaining slab. This would be the cleanest solution and is recommended by the lift manufactures.

I've worked with 2 post in ground, 3 post in ground, 65,000 lb cantilever, 2 post above ground and 2 post side by side in ground. My favorite to date is the 2 post side by side in ground. Takes up less space and I can drive over them if I need to. I had to price the 2 post side by side in ground once. Installed for the 10,000 lb Rotary was $2500. Something to think about is you are going to cut concrete anyway. I'll try to remember to take some pictures today.


BTW, drive over is important in my shop as I am 6 bays, 12 doors, almost all drive through. Two aren't drive through as I made them machine/storage/fabricating areas.

Grigg
What about some kind of trusses/gussets welded/clamped on the front and rear of the lift? Lets say 2 to 3 foot each way.
They would be a tripping hazard, but I would think that would really spread out a firm foot print.
If I go the concrete replacement, I would probably go at least six foot on the front and rear and 10+ inches thick with plenty of rebar.
When it comes to anybody's life. I really like, the over kill way. Pun intended.

Don

It's good to consider the floor thickness and all that. What about the compressive strength of the concrete, that's just as important. It could be 2500 psi or it could be 5000 psi, big difference. Also what is under the floor, compacted aggregate or loose fill?

As for the lift itself, I put in a 9000 lb 2 post lift. I have been very happy with it. Before we poured the floor, I dug down 3' square x 10" thick under the posts and added rebar.

Check the lift manufacturer's requirements. When I got my BendPak 10K 2 post they only required a 4" slab though it needed to be 12'x15'. My floor was bad but not bad enough to replace. They suggested 3'x3' piers 10" thick tied into existing slab. I think the 2 post gives better accessibility over the four post.
Chuck

I'm all about 2-post lifts, wouldn't allow a 4-post to take up space in my garage. If someone gave me a 4-post....I'd sell it immediately.

I just got done redoing my floor for a used 2-post I got at auction. It's a monster, I'm guessing at least 12K. My slab ended up being 3-4" variable thickness with light cracking, but had NO reinforcement--no mesh, no rebar. So I cut 40" x 40" squares out of my slab, dug down 18", and dug an extra 4" horizontally under the existing slab. So the footings come out to 48x48x18, but only look like 40x40 from the top. I also used rebar to tie into the old slab.

It was a LOT of work, but completely worth it. I did it the hard way (the cheap way, rather), and only used a skilsaw, diamond blade, 10 lb sledge, shovel, and HF cement mixer for the job. I'm glad I went to the extra effort required to make a 2-post lift work in my shop. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

Any other recommendations for a 4-post lift?

John, as I stated in my first post the advantage of the 4 poster is not having to crawl around on your knees to set the arms. For us more mature folks that's a big plus.

I hear that, Martin. I may not be as mature as some but my knees are certainly getting there quick.

I also very much like the idea of storing a vehicle above another. The 2-posters don't seem to be good for that.

Watch for local Sears stores that are closing, too. They practically give away the equipment out of the auto centers. Word of caution, though, they do tend to go with bidder that bid on the entire shop over bidder that want only certain equipment, even if the bid is higher. The local auto center sold all of the equipment for $20k, and that included a practically brand new 12,000 lb rotary 2 post lift and a 1 year old $100k+ Hunter Hawkeye Elite aligner w/lift.

I did a lot of research before finding my lift and I never heard of any that required 10 inches of concrete.

My rotary 2 post 10,000 lb only requires 4 to 5 inches from what I recall.

Jim

After a lot of back and forth, think I too am going to go with a 4 post. One of my first jobs during high school was at a Goodyear tire shop and the combination of getting down on your knees to find the frame, it was always a little sketchy being underneath one. You guys that made a real living at it are I'm sure a lot more comfortable under one. I've seen the 4 post displays at mecum auctions with the rolling cross pieces that will hold a small bottle jack for taking off the wheels. Probably only 2 wheels at time, definitely not all 4, but a compromise for stability (at least in my mind), and ease of getting the vehicle in the air in a one man operation. Also as Martin says, with the wheel kit, you can even move the 4 post around if needed. Don't plan on moving it much, but at least have the option.

All depends on what you're doing and what you want.

In my experience a 4 post can be handy for some things like storing a vehicle and basic maintenance.
The downside is they're in the way most all the time either up or down unless you have a very generous sized shop.

The two post might be more trouble to set up but for a hobby shop how often will you be lifting a vehicle?
When you do use it it's a pleasure, most everything is exposed and easy to get to. Worth that little bit of trouble to set up I think.
Smaller footprint in the shop.

I suggest working under one or both types, check out the options first hand and see what actually works for you.

Well basic maintenance alone will not cut it Grigg. Hope that isn't the case. I can't see why you couldn't use it for all underneath drivetrain work, brake lines, exhaust, etc. I also plan to use it to get body panels up at a comfortable level for sanding, filler work. We just had the transmission rebuilt in my son's truck, and the shop did all the work up on a 4 post. What am I missing?

Also want to put the tractor on it to get the 3 point implements up at a comfortable level for swapping out blades and arena drag repairs.

As promised, pictures of the lifts I use:

12,000 lb, 2 post, side by side, in ground. As I said, when I priced this a few years back, it was $2500 installed. http://www.bunchobikes.com/lift1.jpg

60,000 lb, 2 post, in ground. http://www.bunchobikes.com/lift2.jpg

75,000 lb, cantilever. This has a double jack that rolls on the rails under the lights. This way you can lift an axle and remove wheels.
http://www.bunchobikes.com/lift3.jpg
http://www.bunchobikes.com/lift4.jpg

That 12,000 in ground looks sweet.
$2500 installed is a number I can live with.
It does not take up much shop space either.

Don

I realize they are local to me, but these are the folks that gave me the quote back then: http://www.ryrinc.com/index.html

These are the guys that installed all the lifts you see in the pictures: http://www.pacificlift.com/home.html I was out of the loop on this deal except for placement in the shop.

I have 2 of those 12,000 pounders. The second one is on the other side of the wall where you see the fluid reels.

You can do all sorts of things, but I found the platforms to be in the way a lot. You have great access to the very center of the vehicle but not so much the stuff over the platforms. This may not bother you.

Like I said, neither design is bad just make sure what you get suits your style and desires.
I'll have a 2 post one day because it seems like fewer compromises for what I want to use a lift for.

Woo hoo, one of my neighbors who will be doing the concrete floor in my pole barn stopped by this evening to discuss the plan and it looks like we'll be doing about an 8-inch with rebar section in the center bay (where I plan to put the lift) and about 4-5 inches for the rest of it with wire reinforcing. Should be done before Homecoming!

I'm planning for a 4-post 12k lb lift. Sound right?

What make/model, John?

Thanks,

Haven't decided on that, yet, Tim.

John, your back and knees will thank you.

Martin, what is your setup for taking tires off the 4 post?

I lifted the truck enough to slip some jack stands under the axles then lowered the lift. 4 wheels off the ground just like that.

I have the sliding jacking plate and a 4 ton bottle jack. One wheel at a time. Sometimes you have to get creative to find a spot to get a full stroke of the jack handle. Air/hydrolic bottle jack eliminates that problem.

Anybody ever give thought to tall jack stands to free an axle to remove wheels??

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/2-Ton-Heavy-Duty-Tripod-Stand-TALL

http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products/manspace-line/tri-pod-jack-stand.asp

Yup, just haven't gotten to the purchase. They do make it where you have to lift the wheels up quite a distance to put them back on. If you have a bad back it could be a problem.

Here's a picture of my Tow Truck on my 12k 4-post lift.

http://s160.photobucket.com/user/st...2002_zpsdz70l3we.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5

Another down side to the 4-post is you always have to duck under the ramps every time you need another tool. I don't use the lift as much as I thought I would, it's just simpler to work on the floor for me. I mostly work on big trucks so floor clearance is not an issue.

Mike B

Mike B ,
nice set up, must be a tall ceiling for that boom to clear when on lift

I do not have a lift, but when I helped with the race car,the lift was nice to have,but it also could get in the way at times.

I'm still not positive I would use it enough ,although being able to park under can be helpful

Mike B,

What brand/model lift? Although, I think my situation is like yours regarding a need for a lift.

What is the material covering your ceiling?

I only got the lift because I was at the right place at the right time...a Midus Muffler Shop was relocation to a new building and wasn't taking any of their lifts with them. So by word of mouth they sold all the lifts for $500 each in about 15 min. I took the only 4-post that was set up for alignment work and a buddy took two of the 2-post. The owner told me to come back the next Sunday to disassemble it and haul it out. When my son and I got there Sunday the owner said they were slow on Friday so he had his mechanics take it down. He set the entire lift on my car trailer with his fork lift and we were gone in 15 minutes...great deal!

I don't remember what make the lift is...I'll try to look next time I'm out there, it was a national brand.

I have a 16" high ceiling that has white ribbed sheet metal (just like roofing tin). It's screwed to the trussed and then I had 14" of blown fiberglass insulation installed on top of it.

Mike B

INTERESTING,
I would probably go with the 4 post drive on.

I have a vivid memory of a car that fell off the arms on a 2 post.
(brand new car,new undercoating didn't grip)

I guess I am not sure about wanting 15ft ceilings.
(heating)

40' ceilings. The heaters work fine. http://www.bunchobikes.com/lift2.jpg

New 2 post/4 arm works great, too.