The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1961 235 oil filter questions

I recently put a 1961 235 in my 1946 truck- have a few questions about the oil filter.

it looks like a SC-660 filter, i bought a fram C-4 oil filter (based off the number i pulled from the old baldwin filter that was in there)

anyways, the filter fits fine, but the seal for the lid was just slightly too small, it will barely hang onto the inside edge of the cannister- Where can i get another one of these seals? did i possibly order the wrong filter?

is there a seal on the bolt on top as well? between the bolt and the lid?

whats the procedure for getting the correct oil level with one of these filter set ups? check when cold and fill to full? or shoudl i have more oil in it than normal? Ive never dealt with one of these style filters before- im plumbing up new lines for it with 1/8 copper tubing and compression fittings.

No seal on the hold down bolt. If you want to run solid lines to the filter, I would run something less prone to cracking than copper. I would also use a "Lockheed" loop to absorb vibration issues. The flexible lines are not expensive or hard to find or even have made. You need 2, this is one: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME295&i=9979|||||
And this is the other: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME296&i=9979|||||
They can also be made at a good hose shop. for the question about oil level, if I get you right, the engine holds 5 quarts, and the filter holds about 1 so I usually fill the motor with 5 quarts. Run it for a few minutes, then add the last quart. The canister will hold about 1 quart after it fills. The gasket for the top to the canister is different for some canisters. Measure the diameter inside the top. That will help you get the right filter along with the height of the filter. Those 2 measurements are what you need to get the correct filter and gasket. There can be differences from canister to canister. Here is 1: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME373&i=9979|||||
And here is another: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME289&i=9979|||||
It can be confusing I know. The is a very good "Tech Tip on the site. It has a lot of information: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html
Don't get too confused, the "oil filter" was an option installed at the dealer for many years. You could have an early filter on a newer motor or a newer one on an older motor. Some are tall, some are short. Just match the best you can. The gasket in the top should fit nice and snug. That way it won't move when the top is tightened down.

thanks for all the info, I'm just hesitant to use incorrect parts on such a critical piece.

It seems to me I see remnants of some sort or circular seal on the bolt between the lid and the bolt head, must just be gunk i guess.

So the oil from the filter does not gravity drain back into the pan after shutdown?

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html#60

Some types of bypass filters drain back into the pan all the way to the bottom.

Some have a drain-hole near the top of the center tube inside the canister.

Some have a drain plug at the bottom of the canister-body to drain old oil might be in the canister.

Some people use a siphon (turkey/juices baster) to suck out oil remaining in the canister.

When replacing the filter, some people put some new oil in the canister - to lessen the delay of oil moving through the canister. There is nothing wrong in doing this, but it is not really necessary (it is a by-pass filter).

I seem to remember some of those filters using a soft copper washer between the top bolt and the canister lid. Most good-quality parts stores like NAPA will have a copper washer assortment for oil drain plug gaskets, and you'll probably be able to find a good match if you're having leakage problems at the top bolt.
Jerry

yes mine looks like the 5" diameter S6 type, with the fitting at the bottom.

soft copper washer that's a good idea- is it possible to get the rubber seal without buying the whole filer assembly? the FRAM C4 i have appears to be correct fit for this cannister, just the seal is wrong...

This 1961 235 all oil goes thru this filter correct? its not a bypass filter?

All 216 and 235 oil filters were optional and were by-pass oil filters.

From 1958-1963, 261 engines could have any of the following:
- no oil filter
- by-pass oil filter
- full-flow oil filter
- both a full-flow & a by-pass oil filter (possible, but not described by GM)

ok so it must be bypass only, thanks!

1/8" tubing seems VERY small to me, I used 1/4".

well it was the same size ID as the elbow fittings into the filter, so i figured no point going any larger than that just to neck back down at the elbows.

1/8" ID or OD line?

1/8" OD is small - the size of the lead to the oil pressure gauge.

Most likely it would not hurt anything. It would just reduce the flow of oil to the filter canister?

its much larger than the oil pressure gauge line. maybe it is 1/4 inch I cant remember off the top of my head.