The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks 63 C10 body lift and 16" wheel tire combo

Starting some searches but if you can point me to a thread or info on: considering lifting the body of a SWB C10 stepside a couple inches and tire wheel combo of 16". Wanting to give her a bit more of 3/4 stance and fill the wheel wells a bit but keep a factory farm truck appearance. Thanks in advance for leads.
Cavebull

When you say "body lift" do you really mean a classic 4x4 body lift, as in putting spacers between the body and frame, or do you simply mean taller springs?

yeah, body lift ... but only two inches. My 46' I put spacers in to get a bit of lift, the leaf springs in front and rear already made it ride rough as crap. The 2" lift and tire combo (LT215/85R16 Goodrich radials) just gave it a nice stance and I really liked it. I have an Astro van that I put 1 ton springs under for the lift and she rides a bit rough as well. I understand 3/4 ton springs will give me the 2" but again, not sure about the ride, especially since it is SWB. Imagine the Astro - 117" wb with one ton suspension, carries the load nicely but unloaded it is a bit tiring to drive. I have generally tried to keep the lift split evenly between the body and suspension. This way no to much jacking with the geometry and not too much problem as far as steering angles, brake lines the like. The 63' is new to me... the 46 was a body off resto so kind o nonissue when putting it together. I did see one thread and the body lift was hands down "disliked". thoughts?
Cavebull

I like your idea of lifting the truck a bit. I sure wouldn't do a body lift though for just 2 inches of lift.

You should be able to get taller than stock coil springs with the same spring rate. Thus taller but the same ride. The only thing I could see that may need replaced would be longer shocks, but the stock shocks may be ok for just a 2 inch increase.

I'd suggest contacting Eaton Detroit Spring and see if they can build you some custom wound springs that are stock, just 2" taller.

EATON Detroit Spring, Inc.
1555 Michigan Avenue
Detroit, MI 48216
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/learn-about-leaf-coil-springs/
Phone: 1-313-963-3839
Fax: 1-313-963-7047
Email: [email protected]

Great info, I'll give them a yell. If affordable might let them do the same thing for my van. One ton springs in the front with a V6 is stiff.
Thanks,
Cavebull

I talked to them and had them make a taller than stock set for my '69 Camaro. They did a great job.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...ober%202007/CamaroOct071_zps6aca0c32.jpg

_____
John

Just looked at your build, very nice. I do like the look of the tire carrier on the long bed fender. Never noticed the difference - subtle.
I see now why you would not do a body lift...
Cavebull

The new girl needs bigger shoes and stance.
Cavebull

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/24371802626/in/album-72157663399502572/

Decided to go with a body lift and the 215/85 R16 tires and wheels. Went over the truck, took some measurements, looked for possible issues that can arise due to the lift.
So I started a Flickr Album on the project.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/sets/72157661999798034/

I got a nice piece of Delrin (12 x 10 x 2 5/8") and a small piece of 1/8" sheet of rubber for next to nothing. The lift may be 2 5/8" instead of 2", will see once 16" tires and wheels are on. Went ahead and got lift pucks for the cab and blocks for the bed cut, as well as some rubber grommets. Used table saw to rough cut blocks and drill press with hole saw for the pucks. Need to pick up a deep 2" hole saw to cut the core support pucks, The 2" I have is too shallow.
Ordered new body mount rubber... original stuff looks a bit weathered and crushed.
Will update as project progresses.
Cavebull

Picked up a new set of mounting rubber for the radiator and cab this week. I was hesitant about the cost because the bolts are no good to me as they will need to be the "lift puck length" longer - presently it is at 2 5/8".
I have to say receiving the mounts yesterday, I am surprised at the difference and glad I decided to go with new ones. These things look totally different than the OEM ones on the truck. I can see that 2 5/8" body lift number dropping because comparing the new rubber and the original on the truck I may get and inch of body height just by replacing them.
Next - longer bolts.

Added pics to the flickr page: 63' Body Lift

Only planned to get the body lift parts all together and remove a bed bolt for measurements/ordering. Things got out of hand and wound up with the bed lifted 2 5/8"! Cab and core next.
Couple of questions regarding possible rubber spacers. I do not see any in the lift kits on the internet but there were some for sale for my 46'.
Is the goal here to prevent metal to metal contact?
If so, the Delrin pucks up against the frame, body, and metal washers would not need anything, correct?
Pictures of today's events on the Flickr site.

63' Body Lift

Cavebull

What a weekend — No idea, nor my intention, to get so much done on my body lift. Everything is still loose and the core support blocks need to go in, but the cab’s mounts and lift blocks are holding everything up in place. Only the core support bolts/nuts had to be cut with die grinder, all the others wrenched off. In fairness I PB blasted them last week anticipating this.

Bed blocks are in and new stainless bolts ordered via Amazon, otherwise zinc could have been gotten at local hardware store with the other replacement bolts (longer lengths). Not sure if I like the channel the PO put in there and may remove it but body/bed lines will determine shimming needs.

No issues as far as fuel line, speedometer cable, and e-brake cable, and carburetor linkage!

Clutch rod needs 2 ½ “added into it.

The steering column, shaft, and wheel, and rag joint connection differences are minimal (even regarding the steering wheel distances from the dash and at the seat). Could probably run with them as is (for sure if the lift was less than 2 5/8”), but I’m re-doing the shifting mechanism on the TOTT so will fit them as they lie in with not stress at all.

Forgot about the radiator mount! Imagine the surprise when I opened the hood and saw a 2 ½” gap in the upper mounting bracket. Not a big deal, and would have been non-issue if the PO had left the stock 3 core in, as it mounts to frame, the larger 4 core for a 292 is wider and bolts to the core support, hence it raised with the core. Just a minor bracket modification.

Bumpers - rear will be easy as it bolts below the frame tails on brackets. When it comes up it will still hide the frame tails and cross member. The front — I will need to think it through a bit as it bolts directly to the front of the tails. Prefer not to cut frame tails.

Bottom line, 16 — 20 hours for 2 5/8” lift and new body mount rubber all around. This includes making my own body pucks from a block of Delrin. All minor tools, table saw, small drill press, single floor jack.

I do like the stance and ride height, can’t wait to get my 215/85 R16’s on her. Considering the things we do to these old trucks, a body lift is not a big deal, even with the few items I need to tidy up. Would be less of an issue if I’d gone for 2” but the Delrin was free, was 2 5/8” thick and I was lazy
The best thing is, no suspension geometry or ride has been altered, not excessive shimming for alignment, etc.

Will update on the final minor fixes etc.
Cavebull

Lots of progress. Nice work. Waiting to see those pictures.

Hambone , give one of the 63' Body Lift links in one of the posts above a push. The whole process is there on my Flicker site in an album of the same name. Thanks for continued interest.
Cavebull

Extended the clutch rod and got that all hooked back up - added a couple pictures on the Flickr lift site.
I went ahead and pulled the shift linkage off and ordered new bushings and such for it. Should have the rods lengthened before the new stuff gets here.
A couple of weeks ago I decided to put a collapsible steering column in, and remove the solid steering rod. Multiple reasons, safety, rag joint was in need of replacing, etc. The primary reason is it was stretched, workable, but on the edge. and did not like the idea of building shims under dash with e brake brackets etc. Ordered a 24" collapsible column (3/4" and 1"), and two u-joints from CPP. Will cut the 3/4" steering rod to length and grind it to 3/4 DD on top, and place a 3/4-36 spline joint directly on the steering gear. This should retain the original angels, tighten the steering a bit, give me some peace of mind.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/sets/72157662779313234/-
Man, she does look good with this lift, I cannot wait to find my 16's and get new rubber on it.
Cavebull