The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Tubeless?

Had the tires taken off the rims so I could sandblast and paint. When I go to have the tires remounted, is there an obvious reason to use the tubes when the tires are tubeless? Am I missing something here or was the previous owner?

I would guess that the wheels are probably not designed for tubeless tires. They will probably leak air without a tube.

I am running tubeless tires without tubes on my '53 with the original wheels. I have had no problems.

To keep from scratching the wheels try mounting the tires yourself. I took two tire spoons and covered the ends of them with black electrical tape. I laid the wheel on a blanket on my garage floor. I used soapy water to lubricate the tire and worked it around the rim with the spoons.

It was surprising easy. I spent about 10 minutes mounting 5 tires.. No scratches..

'53 4 me,

What size tires are you using?

How did you balance the wheels (how did you balance the tires/rims)?

Thanks, Tim

Tim--

Those 15inch OEM rims that you got--is the inner wheel riveted or welded to the outer wheel? Thanks.

I am using the 15 inch artillery wheels on my 37 and went tubeless with no problems so far. My wheels are rivited. Jeff

Buzz'n,

Both my 15" and 16" rims are riveted (1/2 ton trucks)? Is there a year-difference for riveted vs welded?

The 15" rims have clips for the hubcaps while I have 16" rims with clips and some with no clips (these have a ridge that the hubcap is pushed over).

I assume the clipless rims are from a newer truck?

Tim

I have some later Fjord 8-lug wheels (they are the same as the ones in the article on installing hubcap clips), and they are rivited and all had tubeless radials installed when I bought them. No leaks. They were probably made in the '70s. If you want to run radials, and the wheels have leaks at the rivits, I think you can buy tubes for radial tires.

When I bought two new Goodyear "Workhorse" 7.50 x 16 truck tires for the front end of my '61 Willys pick-up, I had them try the tubeless route and it has worked pretty well for the last 6 years; I do have to add air about once every two months or so, but have been able to live with that.

If the rims aren't pitted around the bead/sidewall area, it might work.

Frank McMullen

Tim--

Thanks for the reply. I've been looking for those 15" OEM wheels for some time. Recently a guy gave me a pair or at least what he and I thought were a pair. These are WELDED not riveted but 15" 5.5" bolt centers 6 bolt, 3.25" backspace clips for 8" hubcap with large center hole and look identical to AD rims.

Now that you tell me your wheels are riveted--I'm thinking maybe I got a pair of cut wheels--although it appears to be a really good professional job--can't tell from originals. The other thing is-- if they are cut they didnt use the outer wheel--no indication of rivit holes. Even more strange--15x5.5 379 stamped in outer rim. Wonder if there could be some factory wheels like this 55-60.? Anybody know?

Presently running the "ridged" 6 lug wheels as you call them--but mine are 15inch. Think these wheels are from 80's chevy trucks but not positive.

I would like to have original looking 6 lug 15" rims all around--hope those 15" OEM rims you've got match mine and can be located down here. Thanks.

Thanks for the input. Sounds like this is OK. Guess I need to get the brakes done so I can try them out. Ordered rear cylinders from ChevyDuty for my '50 but they were wrong. Have to wait now for the return. Looks like the rear brakes are from the 51-54. This is a "learn as you go" project.

This is a "learn as you go" project.

Aren't they all ??

Tim, I am running original style bias ply tires, size 6.70 - 15 ... The shop that aligned my front end balanced the tires by adding the weights to the inside of the rim..