The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1959 Viking 60

Hello guys,

Noob here, I'm buying a 59 Viking in Ne. and hauling it home to Mo. My trailer is a triple axle, but not a deck over. I'm thinking the rear outer tires will not fit between the fenders. Does anyone know the width of the rear axle? If I need to remove the outer rears, what size are the lug nuts. I look forward to this project, will wind up with 4 wheel drive and dump flat bed.

Forgot to add, my fenders are 84" apart.

Thanks for any help.

Ron

Hi and welcome to the site! My 58 Viking 60 (should be the same) is 90" outside to outside of the rear tires. Lug nuts take a 1 1/2" socket(6-lug Budd pattern) Left side should be left hand threads.

Thank You! very helpful information. I like to go prepared, so it looks like I'll be removing the outside rears. I didn't want to carry my whole 3/4 drive set, 1 1/2" will work.

Noob question...Does Viking 60 mean it's a 6400? confused on that.

Thanks again,
Ron

Put the '59 on the trailer facing forward and you don't need to remove the rear tires, just center the truck over the axles.

Mike B

Problem I have is it's a three axle trailer with not a lot of room behind the third axle. There would be a lot of over hang if I left behind the last axle and the weight will not be balanced.

I posted earlier, but it didn't go through. I just wanted to thank you guys for replying and look forward to working on this.

Thanks,

Ron

Hi,Scrappy,and WELCOME!! Are you planning on swapping the sheet metal on a later model frame,or swapping axles? Just Curious! Got Any pic's??

Hello,

I've tried to post today, but nothing is coming through. Two thoughts, one would be finding a appropriate front axle, with gears to match the rear or two, mount the cab on my M35 ( 2 1/2 ton military ) frame. I can get a decent OD gear for the deuce, in order to cruse @ 60 MPH. I don't want it to look like a monster truck, but need a truck to haul a livestock trailer, rock and firewood. I have a 2010 Dodge 5500 with a dump bed and want to replace it with this Viking. The M35 has a front winch, which I need.

I haven't got it home yet, so I need to learn a lot about it, before making a final plan. Not even sure if it has a two speed rearend, which would mess up my plan of adding a front axle to it. Really didn't want to buy another whole running gear to put under it, so thinking of using the deuces running gear, since it's paid for.

Edit... Thanks for the warm welcome!

Scrap,

How long is the truck wheelbase and the bed?

What type bed is on the truck (flat, dump, stake etc)...wood or steel?

What's the trailer type (gooseneck or bumper pull), length and weight rating?

What are you pulling it with?

Mike B

Pulling with my 2010 1 1/2 ton Dodge, it's a 5500. Trailer is a 18' with triple #5200 axles with surge brakes, bumper pull ( pintle hitch )

The Viking has a grain bed on it, but that's all I know about the bed, I haven't see it in person yet.

My guess is the truck is a 6400 series (154" wb), it will weigh between 8,000 and 10,000 pounds and be about 21' long (bumper to bumper) with a 12' grain body. If I'm right, your trailer will be to short to load it backwards, there's to much rear body overhang. Your tow vehicle can handle the tongue weight, so load it facing forward and let the bed overhang out the back.

Mike B

The only problem with my trailer is it's not a deck over and with that third axle out back, the space from the trailer fender and the rear of the trailer is some what short. So, it looks like I'll be removing the outer tires, so it gets up there a little farther and I'll have to remove the ramps, for the overhang. Not too bad, but any problems with removing the outer tire and rebolting just the inner tire. Lug nuts work with just one tire, etc.

Thanks for the help!

Nope, it's done all the time. Main thing is to get the balance right so the trailer will pull w/o jerking or swaying back and forth. Slow down until you get a feel for how its handling and adjust your speed accordingly. Make sure to chain it down really good, you don't want to get hassled by your friendly trooper.

Just pull the truck up as close to the trailer rear axle as you can and call it a day.

To get the rear wheels off you'll need a 3/4" drive Breaker Bar with a 16 to 18" extension, a 1-1/2" socket (or a truck "X" Lug Wrench), a 5 to 6' long cheater pipe and a small adjustable jack stand (or a pile of scrap wood) to rest the breaker bar extension on. Check the Stud ends..."L" = Left hand threads.

The Inner Wheel is held on by the Stud Nut the should remain in place after the outer 1-1/2" nut is removed. To remove the inner wheel you'll need a square socket to remove the stud that holds the wheel in place.

Let us know how it all works out,

Mike B

I'm very familiar with how the trailer pulls with weight and it likes some weight up front. I'm the guy, friends call on for hauling stuff, you know how that works, so all should be fine.

I'm leaving early Sat. morning, be back Sunday, if you don't hear from me, you know it went bad!

I just did some measuring and if it is a 154" wheel base, then it might work perfect without removing the tires.

Thanks for all the helps guys!

Don't forget to take some pictures...

Be safe!

Mike B

I just talked to the owners Son, said he fired it up and drove it around the barn. He's going to work on removing the outer tires, before I get there, so sounds like it might go real good. Even the dump works!

Camera is packed...

SWEET! running is a lot easier to load than trying to drag it on with a come-a-long! You probably have a winch but, running is always nice! My 58 fired up and I was able to load it under its own power as well.

Made it home! Man, it's long, too. Didn't need to remove the outer tires, the front tires were as far as they were going and the backs were just on the trailer. No brakes to speak of, so I winched it up and went good. The body is a little ruffer than stated ( aren't they always! ), but still nice. Hood spring is out of wack, I'll be asking about that.

I was really surprised I never got pulled over, looked bad, but really secure with four chains and the winch cable still hooked up. 55 mph all the way home, 560 miles one way! Took some pictures with it in the shed and loaded, but I'm very challenged when it comes to photo bucket, etc. I'll get somebody to show me later.

It has a huge grain/livestock bed on it, that I can sell and the dump works , so that's a plus. I think you guys will be impressed with the interior, even has a headliner. Mouse house right now, though.

The wheel base is @ 184" does that sound right? Too long for my use, but haven't a plan yet on the build, still open for debate. It is a 2 speed rear end.

Anyway, I'll get those pictures loaded up ASAP.

glad you got home safely!

Thanks!

Been doing some looking at it and see where the frame and driveshaft have 18" added to them. Is that a factory way of lengthening the wheel base or did the farmer make it fit the grain bed? No fish plates on the frame just two welds. I would of plated both sides and probably boxed it. If I keep this frame and setup, it will have to be shortened, as I like the smaller wheel bases. I get spooked cutting and welding things like frames, a lot riding on your quality of welds.

I am not sure on that. My 55 has an extension on the back of the frame (behind the springs, to support the back of the bed). Too bad you are not closer, I will probably end up with an extra shorter stock frame!

Funny you say that, in 2010 I bought my Dodge 5500 from Dave Smith Dodge and had to fly to Seattle. They picked us up and drove to Kellogg Id. Drove it all the way home, just cab and chassis. We'd like to come back, but in my old Landcruiser.

I'm eyeing up the cab and my deuce, looks like it would be a good fit. Found a cool old jack in the cab.

I need to do some research on shop manuals, are they out there?

I have altered the wheelbase on a lot of trucks. The modern ones are heat treated, and we don't weld them at all. We bolt a glove on the inside and outside and put a cross member at the splice. However, trucks like yours have mild steel frames and will weld. The big concern is keeping the frame straight. We use a tape measure to make an "X" from the right front to the left rear and Left front to the right rear. We set the front and back on jack stands and level both front and back. If you put the thing together crooked, you will have a mess forever

Here are a couple of them I just recently whacked four feet out of the middle.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/1126369...7757214978&oid=112636930370126476644

https://plus.google.com/u/0/1126369...2585120658&oid=112636930370126476644

I wouldn't box a frame because they need to flex. If you box them, something is going to break elsewhere. If you have big concerns, a glove bolted inside of the frame will make it stronger than it was when it was new. Welding a diamond shaped plate inside the frame will do a lot.

If you are concerned about the welding, hire someone who does fabricating. If they do this for a living, they will know how to weld and they will know that everything has to be in square before they ever strike an arc.

Crenwelge,

Those are nice! What type of bed is going on them or maybe a 5th wheel plate. I see the taper of the frame, on the end, why that.

I'm not worried about my welding, but not pro, either. Nothing has ever cracked, just double think it when frame welding. Some vehicles do have box frames, like Land Rover, but you're right, they do need to flex. I did a lot of fish plating on my Landcruiser, where I put motor mounts, power steering add ons, etc.

Do you have a thread or web site on your work, cool looking stuff.

Sounds like someone lenghtened your frame. Whats the chassis serial number (located on the door post) start with?

6A = 132" wb
6B = 154" wb
6C = 174" wb

Mike B

Mike,

I was just reading about the VIN numbers. It's a 6B, 154" Had me messed up for a minute, the title says 68 not 6B, some where a long the line, it got changed.

Scrapdaddy, I have a couple of Google accounts that are just a hodge podge of pictures. I don't take many pictures of what I'm doing because we maintain our working trucks in our shop every day. Hopefully

https://plus.google.com/u/0/s/Kenneth%20crenwelge/posts


https://plus.google.com/u/0/s/Kenneth%20crenwelge/photos

Crenwelge,

No, for some reason I can't open those. You're first pictures came through. I really like that green GMC.

See if they open now. It may be that I have to be logged in to open them. I'm better than fixing trucks than I am to posting links

Got 'em, great pictures, you have a heck of a collection.

I'm trying to post some pictures, see if this works..http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/scrapdaddy-ron/library/?sort=3&page=1

Not working, I'll have to wait for my Granddaughter's help

the link works... nice looking truck! The pass side fender looks like it was relaced at some point with a 58. (at least the fender emblem is 58)

Thanks! I hadn't noticed the difference in emblems, I'll take a look.

Hey, you're right! I never noticed that. I fix that when I get started on the body, which will be a while.

How hard is it to get replacement fenders? Fix the dents and rust on these or good used ones.

I think on the big bolts, you would have an easier time finding a rainbow colored unicorn! I do not believe anyone makes new ones so, you would be looking for another used set in better condition. If I use my 58 fenders, I will need to repair holes in the top of both fenders as well as both inner fenders as they were cut up for exhaust stacks (grain truck, didn't want exhaust catching anything on fire!)

That's what I thought, just fix what I have. Doesn't the dash parts, heater controls, knobs, etc. share with the apaches from the same years.

Inner fenders are easy, they are the same for all conventional cab trucks Series 30 thru 100.

Mike B