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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 | I am rewiring my truck and the pin connector I tossed out way back when.
I am looking for the pin connector for the sending unit and I am not sure what goes on the gauges I have not looked at it yet. From what I have read it was a one year only part since it was the first year it was electric and not mechanical.
I tried a bullet connector from the 14-16 gauge but its just too big.
Does anyone know of what size it is or where I can get one for the sending unit? what is the one that goes on the actual gauge?
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen 56 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | The 1955 sender has threaded (or is it a push-on) post?
The 1956 sender has a post that takes a "spade" connector? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | bartamos, That is a slip-on spade connector (female). If Tiny-Jaime is referring to the sender unit (screwed into the head): 1955 is on left & 1956-and-later is on the right The left on get a female push-on/down terminal I think the right one gets a split-spade-clip like - this, but it holds to the top post by friction (I think) Maybe someone can photograph a wire connected to 1955 car/2nd-truck sender, and a wired connected to a 1956 (and later) style sender? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | That conduct-tite female bullet connector (that you added to your post above) would probably give a good friction fit to the 1955 sender (maybe someone knows the size that might work). | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Tim, the connector I posted is for the 1956 style sender. The bullet connectors I posted are suggestions for the rear of the 1956 gauge. Some temp senders have "threads" for push on or possibly a nut and would then use a ring tongue terminal. 55 should be mechanical, it has a probe, no electric. He sounds like he has a stock electrical 56 setup and should use the hat style sender with connector I posted and try to hook up the gauge with a bullet connector terminal.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Tim, You were correct, it is a female spade contact inside the connector shell. But it fits perfectly on the hat style sender and is what Chevy used. Those zip-on "threaded" pins are used throughout the Chevy world in other places, can't remember where but the right angle mate is available I'm sure. (maybe I see them on relays or alternators or horns???) EDIT: Here is one: http://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/...Stud-Connector-Socket-Pigtail-2-Pcs.aspxNo. 8 stud is .164 diameter. In my American Auto Wire kit I had special connectors for the back of the gauges, O/E style, but I don't see them offered at AAW in their accessories list.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 | My 56 which I believe is all original 235 with the 848 head. I purchased a Pico #5656c electrical connector to install on the automatic choke connector for my carter weber 2 bbl that I purchased from Langdon's Stovebolt Company. The Pico connector is a #5656C (#5656PT) 90° Universal Socket Sensor GM 12112171 Temp & #8 Stud Connections Delco PT40. It is too big. Here is a picture of the sending unit and back of the gauge. The sending unit does not have "spade or threaded connector" back of 56 temperature gauge 56 235 temp sending unit in a 848 head top of temp sending unit Again the #8 is too big I just was not sure what you guys have done or if you ran across this issue before. The back of the gauge is not a problem because it has a nut that I can put a ring terminal on, its the actual sending unit. I have read that this was the only year for this sending unit and if you go with the the "57" or later the ohm's were different and it causes your sending unit to not read correctly unless you install a resister. Just want to be reading right. The 1955 sender has threaded (or is it a push-on) post?
The 1956 sender has a post that takes a "spade" connector?
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen 56 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 | That is the same as the Pico 5656C which I have and tested on the sending unit and its just too big, good idea thou. Tim, You were correct, it is a female spade contact inside the connector shell. But it fits perfectly on the hat style sender and is what Chevy used. Those zip-on "threaded" pins are used throughout the Chevy world in other places, can't remember where but the right angle mate is available I'm sure. (maybe I see them on relays or alternators or horns???) EDIT: Here is one: http://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/...Stud-Connector-Socket-Pigtail-2-Pcs.aspxNo. 8 stud is .164 diameter. In my American Auto Wire kit I had special connectors for the back of the gauges, O/E style, but I don't see them offered at AAW in their accessories list.
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen 56 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 | yes mine is like the on the one on the left. I am assuming the hat style is the one on the right. 56 235 temp sending
Last edited by Tiny_Jaime; 01/15/2016 4:01 AM.
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen 56 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | OK so we now know that you only want info for connection to the sender NOT the gauge. Here is the complete story of senders. You seem to have the correct one for cylinder head mount. After reading the history, Click on "Repair Components" scroll down to "Temperature Sending Unit Lead Repair Kit" to see the connector you need for the pin type. I thought you had the "T" type "Hat" because most internet vendors show that style for 1956. After reading the link here, I see how confusing this 55-56 deal is and that previous owners may change things. Anyhow now you finally have the answer and the place to buy what you need. http://www.lectriclimited.com/frequently_asked_questions.htm#F02The 3rd white connector from the top is probably your choice for the sender pin because it can't rotate into something hot because it's round. P.S. If those studs in your pic are on the temp gauge, they are not for a ring tongue. I do not see threads. You should not take the nut off IMO. You may need what I think I see in the lower right corner of the "Repair Components"/Temp sender unit lead repair kit" picture. I am pretty sure the "L" shaped Gray connector/contact set is for your gauge. You can also see them in this pic. http://www.trifive.com/garage/56%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/12-4.gif
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 | its starting to piece together now. I read Lectric Limited information and looked at the picture and still was somewhat confused, I got tunnel vision. I went to the movies came back and read it again and it hit me like a ton a bricks. I see that it clips on with pressure of the connector on top and it can somewhat swivel and stay connected. I was thinking it was a push on type like a bullet connector duh I think I got it. I emailed the Lectric Limited to verify. I will post their replay. Thanks everyone and you Batamos for the link it had some good info. oh when I was talking about removing the nut on the gauge I was referring to installing a ring connector and then replacing the nut it is threaded only on the temperature gauge and fuel gauge. I do not know if other years where like that or not. My buddy has a 58 3100 and when we were looking in the aftermarket catalogs his sending unit where it mounts into the engine is smaller not like the 1/2" size as in the 56. OK so we now know that you only want info for connection to the sender NOT the gauge. Here is the complete story of senders. You seem to have the correct one for cylinder head mount. After reading the history, Click on "Repair Components" scroll down to "Temperature Sending Unit Lead Repair Kit" to see the connector you need for the pin type. I thought you had the "T" type "Hat" because most internet vendors show that style for 1956. After reading the link here, I see how confusing this 55-56 deal is and that previous owners may change things. Anyhow now you finally have the answer and the place to buy what you need. http://www.lectriclimited.com/frequently_asked_questions.htm#F02The 3rd white connector from the top is probably your choice for the sender pin because it can't rotate into something hot because it's round. P.S. If those studs in your pic are on the temp gauge, they are not for a ring tongue. I do not see threads. You should not take the nut off IMO. You may need what I think I see in the lower right corner of the "Repair Components"/Temp sender unit lead repair kit" picture. I am pretty sure the "L" shaped Gray connector/contact set is for your gauge. You can also see them in this pic. http://www.trifive.com/garage/56%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/12-4.gif
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen 56 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | P.S. If those studs in your pic are on the temp gauge, they are not for a ring tongue. You should not take the nut off IMO. You may need what I think I see in the lower right corner of the "Repair Components"/Temp sender unit lead repair kit" picture. I am pretty sure the "L" shaped Gray connector/contact set is for your gauge. You can also see them in this pic. http://www.trifive.com/garage/56%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/12-4.gifThe Nuts I see in your picture are to hold the gauge meter onto the gauge housing. Those stick-up studs need a special connector as seen in my links. These are known as "pin grip" contacts/connectors. If you can somehow get a ring tongue to work, UP2U, could be OK.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 566 | Update... I ordered the repair connector for the temperature sending unit from Lectric Limited and today I went to Tuckers Classic Trucks in Henderson NV and they have an old wiring harness for the fuel gauge and temperature gauge connections on gauge cluster. I can cut a pigtail and attach to the new wiring.
I have also 2 Carter / Weber carbs I bought from Tom Langdon a few years back so he just had some automatic choke pigtails made and he now sells them new for 5 dollars for the pair. I guess i can start wiring again.
Thanks guys for all the help.
Last edited by Tiny_Jaime; 01/23/2016 8:42 PM.
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen 56 Chevy 3100 | | |
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