The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Milling hubs

What is everyone's view of milling a couple of mm off of my front hubs? My guess is that I would need 3-4mm to make it level

what year and size truck?

what part of the "hub"?

1951 3100. It would be the backside of it. See photobucket pictures. They will be up in less then 5 minutes

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u658/ndkid275/51%20Chevy%203100/image_zpsfsvzmp85.jpeg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u658/ndkid275/51%20Chevy%203100/image_zpsyifcpb5c.jpeg
http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u658/ndkid275/51%20Chevy%203100/image_zpspdj2yeea.jpeg

Looks bent pretty bad.
If you true the back side the front side still won't be flat. If you true both sides might not have enough meat left.

How about new/better hubs?

I agree with Grigg, that looks pretty messed up. You could always measure the thickness, clean up both sides, and then measure again to see how much actually had to come off but, I would look for another.

Trash it! That's bent too badly to save, and betting your life and the lives of the people around you on the road isn't worth the risk.
Jerry

What year hubs should I be looking for then? 47-5?

Looks like the studs were pressed in without the proper support under them. Shouldn't be that hard to get the studs out and put it back into the press to be straightened out. There are not hardened steel, so bending them back should be as easy as bending them in the first place.

Looks like unskilled worker pressing in studs, lucky to straighten with press.

Ed

The hub is usually supported by the drum when pressing out studs

Sometimes its difficult removing a hub from the drum. Even after you remove the rivets

Chris,
I've got a press if you want to try to straighten it.

BTW... Is the truck back from paint?

Ok, so I am the [censored] that pressed the studs into the hub the first time then my buddy did it the second time.

Russ, let me talk to my buddy since it is at his shop.

Even with some care and time at the press followed by, and intermixed with, installing it and checking runout with a dial indicator you probably won't get it perfect and then need to turn it in a lathe to finish the job.

We're it mine I'd first try to find good hubs, might be cheaper, faster, and less risk than trying to salvage what you have.

Next time use a piece of pipe or socket to support the hub immediately around the stud, don't give it anywhere to bend.

To answer the earlier question about what hubs to look for.
1951-59 1/2 ton would be exactly like yours.
1937-50 should also work. They have a larger pilot for the drum, but since you are using disc rotors they should work fine.

I looked in my GM parts manual.

Wheel Hubs

Group # 6.307

I see 1950 to 1957 1/2 ton Wheel Hubs

GM part # 3694768 with casting # 3694768

GM # 3694768 SUPERSEDED TO: GM # 3754160 on ( 8-1-1958 )

Dan's GM Obsolete
in
Chinook, Montana
phone: 402-357-2615

Dan's has ( 2 ) GM NOS Wheel Hubs GM # 3754160 in stock



I also found another source that has ( 1 ) GM # 3694768 if needed.


George
'54 3600

Thanks everyone. I just found one and we shall see where it goes. I guess I will have to look at what I used when pressing this time and use something better for stabilization and to ensure it doesn't bend. Kind of funny that one bent and the other didn't despite doing them exactly the same.

Thanks again! Always interesting to hear the knowledge out there and how fast questions can be answered on here.

Chris

I use a socket to support the rim.

I dont have a press

I drew mine up with a impact when joining my hubs to the disc kit
Then had to remove them due to needing to use a spacer because of a screw up with my wheel order. Had to reinstall longer studs

Both times I was able to remove the studs without a press

Just the shock of a BFH on some nuts I spun on them. Popped right out

Guess I got lucky, press with support is probably better.

Cletus,

I used a cylinder about 2 inches in diameter. The press was not great and I had to use a ratchet strap to hold the hub in place so it didn't jump up. It took a little more pressure then I wanted since they were rusted in place.

Dad, My BFH would have probably hit something I didn't want! Also, I had to take them in and out more then once due to the spacer issue also.

Chris

Pulling studs into a hub with a nut and an impact wrench is a really good way to stretch the threads and end up with a sudden break. Nothing like losing 3 or 4 lugs within a couple of blocks to make for an exciting ride. A 1/2-20 lug bolt is rated for about 90-100 ft/lbs. and a good impact wrench can develop nearly twice that figure.
Jerry

Spend a little more money and a 1/2" impact will put out over 400 ftlb, and wring off 1/2" bolts/studs. Don't think it is ever advisable to draw a wheel stud in with the nut.

A big hammer and a solid punch/bar often works well.

Another handy tool for pressing in or out studs is a ball joint or u-joint press, looks like a big C clamp. It won't fit every situation but where it fits it's a good option.

Ball joint service kit

As Grigg recommended, it very easily (and safely) removes and replaces wheel studs.

That basic ball joint press, some round steel stock, and a lathe can end up with some custom-made adapters for all sorts of pressing jobs. It can even be used to push drag link and Pitman arm balls in and out. Use plenty of Never-Seez on the press jackscrew!
Jerry

I doubt my little impact can can produce 200 ftlbs even with a fully charged battery. It did draw up with not much effort. Only to have to replace them with longer studs.

I did not and suggest using a 1/2 drive impact.

In my case I could of drew them up with a box end.
I did do that when I had to replace a broken stud on the rear.

Use a press properly of you have one.



I ended up haveing to use longer studs on the disc kit. That ment I had to go up a size. So I ended up with 1/2 studs on the front and the originals in the rear.

Luckly I found lug nuts for the front that are are same size hex as the rear. I just have to remember the diffrent torque values for the lug nuts. This is something the O.P. Might run into also.